Toyota Landcruiser Steering

Starting at the steering wheel, the column passes into the engine bay where there is typically a u-joint. The steering box is normally not directly in line with the steering wheel, and this joint helps the column bend around the corner (where "corner" is a gross exageration). The u-joint can wear out, and depending on the loads placed on it, and the position of sun spots, can create very sloppy conditions at some times and be very tight at others.

Next is the steering box itself. This can be either a rack & pinion design (I am not certain of what the Land Cruiser uses) or a recirculating ball design. Given the size and weight of the Land Cruiser, and the intedned use as an offroad vehicle, I'll guess it uses a recirculating ball type of steering. A recirculating ball is kind of like a worm gear device (in the Reader's Digest theme of explaining things). The box itself can wear out. In any case, the steering column is the Input, and the Pitman Arm is the Output. One test is to GENTLY rock the steering wheel from side to side, and observe the pitman arm moving in unison. As the steering wheel moves to the right, the pitman arm should also move to the right. The degree of movement will not be the same because the steering box is a reduction gear mechanism -- what goes in and what comes out may not be 1:1. It should be close, I suppose, but what it must be is that when the direction changes on one, it should also change on the other. If the steering column moves but the pitman arm does not, then you need a steering box. (There is service activity -- adjustments -- that can be done, so the box does not necessarily need to be replaced.)

The Pitman Arm is attached via rods to the tie rod ends, which are bolted to the respective tires. The tie rods can be severely worn, and this can cause slop of the sort you describe. Of the tings I've talked about, this is perhaps on the top of the list, followed by the u-joint, then the steering box.

You need to be under the truck looking at stuff while a helper turns the wheel. All movement should be smooth and follow the timing of the wheel. You may want to make your observations with the motor running and with it off. The results ought to be the same both ways, but screaming instructions at the helper is easier without all of the racket from the motor. You can also put your hand on moving parts to feel if they are smooth, or if you can feel a click or a jump as they move.

You could also have trouble with ball joints, but you ought to have tire-wear issues if you had bad ball joints.

I believe there will also be an adjustment for the "pre-load" on the gear in the box. Being too loose could create some play. A parts or rebuild kit might be in order. Although, having attempted this once, I'd recommend replacing the box with a rebuilt one.

I've had to adjust old Chevy recirculating-ball steering boxes before when they got sloppy, it can be done fairly easily. Usually one Allen-head set-screw and a jam-nut holding the adjustment.

And a lot of Toyota's old-school tech was bought, copied or stolen from GM (reference: the GM 235CI "Blue Flame Six" became the Toyota "F" motor, complete to the lifter gallery hatches) so it's probably the same basic Saginaw design.

The steering box CAN be rebuilt - but by the time you get all the special tools and materials together, and spend all the time learning how to do your first one, it's far cheaper to just go buy one that was factory rebuilt. The production rebuild shop stocks all the piece parts and special tools they'll need, they set up the tools and bench once, and do 100 boxes in a batch.

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Hi Geoff Thanks for your interest shown in my problem, but it appears that all mechanical pieces of the steering system are in good condition with no evident play. This is substaintiated by on the rear ocassion when the steering has no play in the straight ahead position, if I stop the vehicle, switch the engine off and then start the engine again I now have 40mm of play in the steering in the straight ahead position. This indicates to me the pump is cavitating on start up, pumping air into the system which is giving me the 'spongy' feeling on the steering wheel. If you have any contacts who know how the hydraulic system could be rectified to cure the problem, please can you assist. Thanks Guy

You have to determine where the play is coming from when the play occurs.

I can't imagine a problem that will let air in, where there is not always air. If there is ever air, there is always air. If you keep the hydraulic reservior adequately filled, there is no way the pump can suck air. If it sucks air, the fluid is low. Having said that, I have a Jeep with a known leak in the power steering system, and I don't even think about the fluid until I can hear the pump starving. (I'm not suggesting this is a good strategy, I'm suggesting that air in the system is not your problem.)

Does your Land Cruiser have rack & pinion steering? If so, is the rack botled on well. If the rack was not bolted down well, yoiu could get a symptom similar to what you describe. I'm not certain, but I think that if the rack was loose, you would find that the steering wheel would not be straight to keep the vehicle going straight.

In any case, I am not convinced that air in the system is your issue. I'm stuck on mechanical problems. If you can not see what is wrong, then you should be making plans to visit the mechanic. If your trouble is what I suspect, you will be able to see it. You need a friend to GENTLY turn the steering wheel as you watch the component parts move in unison. Any part that does not move when the part before it moves is high on the list of suspects.

Hi Jeff Thanks again for your reply. The Land Crusier has a Recirculating Ball steering box. I get response to steering wheel movement left and right instanteous with the engine switched off. The 'play' or 'lack of feel' in the straight ahead position is whilst driving the vehicle. This 'play' can be eliminated by setting idling speed to 1800 revs and turning the steering from lock to lock several before driving off - hence my thoughts of air in the system. When the 'play' has been eliminated on the steering wheel the steering is good. Switch the engine off, restart immediately, drive off and we now have got excessive movement of the steering wheel and control of the vehicle is poor. As this is a self bleeding steering system if I lower the operating pressure in the system, will I get the air to clear with the engine at normal idling speed without turning from lock to lock before driving off. Thanks once again for your input, it is apprecaited. Guy

Jeff Strickland wrote: