Did you go buy a Haynes manual (or comparable)? There are pictures in it
that show how to pry to check for bad ball joints. I believe it would be
too difficult to explain in a text only forum. Generally speaking though,
CV joints generally fail with a clicking sound while turning. Ball joints
will give you a thump over bumps. You can use a bar with the car up on jack
stands and pry against the ball joint and look for signs of movement, but
you have to understand where the ball joint is and how it works to make a
meaningful attempt at this. Assuming you're up to snuff in that department,
the ball joint is riveted to the lower A-Frame. You'll have to separate the
steering knuckle to replace it and either drill the rivets out of chisel
them out. The replacements bolt in.
Mike I would like to thank you for your response. You have given me some
great advise. I talked me my mechanic and he will look at it and see what it
is. He thinks ball joint. He said cost for ball joint is $350, and he said
it would be a hard fix for me to do with my bad shoulders and the fact you
need a air chisel to remove the original.
Yeah - it's a bit of a workout. Not a killer, but the job does take some
grunting. $350 sounds high to me. One ball joint should be under $50 for
the part. I don't know what the book pays for a ball joint R&R, but I'm
having a bit of trouble with $350. Others who wrench for a living could
probably speak better to this. You might want to get a second price. This
is not a specialized repair so any shop should be able to handle it. Even
the likes of (dare I say it...) Pep Boys.
Mike you called it right. Both sides ball joints were bad. The mechanic told
me Jimmy's are known for this and many other problems. I called around and
got some other quotes. Started at $440 to $1200 for both sides upper and
lower. The shop I go like I said wanted $350. I have been told it should
have an alignment and others say no its not needed for ball joint
Well, I hope that replacing the ball joints fixes your thump. One of
the main reasons that Jimmy's are "known for this" is that most shops
don't bother to read the manual and figure out what the allowable
specs are. You can have a lot of play in these ball joints before you
can condemn them. Like 1/8" up and down, 1/8" side to side.
Aftermarket shops love these vehicles.....as you can bring the customer
out and "show" them how sloppy the lower ball joints are. Problem is,
they are like that almost right from the factory.
And you should always do an alignment after replacing any front
suspension part. That's a no brainer!
heres my rental fleet exp. w/blazer, jimmy, s-10 hard full turn while
going over ANY rise or bump.........the tires used to rub on full turns so
GM welded small steel plates to the frame where the spindle turn stops
would shorten the max amount of turn. the tires dont rub any longer BUT on
full turns the spindle stops grind up against the add-on plate and ANY
vertical movement causes EXTREME popping noise.......fix = lubriplate on
stop plate. temporary at best but who can outthink GMs marvelous
engineering minds in detroit. after enuff applications you will figure out
exactly where to smear it w/out jacking up the truck......btw; GM WARRANTY
ADVISORS CALL IT 'NORMAL'...............kjun
Thanks but I don't think that is the problem. Its a real hard thump I can
hear and feel. It has just started doing this after 140,000 miles. I notice
it most with turning into a parking spot and every time I back out of my
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