Sure is, lol. Glad to hear conventional green worked for you. I hope the
people that converted it back flushed it several times and ran a chemical
cleaner in it for a 4 - 6 hours to get all the DEX-COOL residue out of that
I'm pretty sure they did, it was there for 12 hours of labor on the receipt
thing. The only way that GM would pay for it to be done was that we had to
take it to the dealership we bought it from. At first they were kind of
reluctant and then we got the GM rep on the phone at the service counter and
I guess he chewed out the technician because they wanted to charge us for
Bullfeathers. Ethylene Glycol antifreeze has been used in engines with
aluminum compoenents and in aluminum-block engines for decades. Even by GM.
Temperature is temperature. There's nothing "balanced" differently at all.
Wouldn't surprise ME at all. If I were a GM owner again (heaven forbid
the day, but at the rate Daimler is wrecking Chrysler I may have no
choice...) I would dump the DexCool immediately and run a G-05 based
coolant at far more frequent change intervals. The ONLY reason GM went
to DexCool is to try and extend service intervals for advertising
purposes (Lookee! you can weld the radiator cap on and NEVER worry about
it! <nudge nudge wink wink>). If you REALLY want the car to last a long
time and don't care so much about change intervals, your objective may
be at cross-purposes for GMs intended use of DexCool anyway.
On Sat, 4 Oct 2003, Buford T. Justice wrote:
<an excellent post about coolant>
I heartily second your recommendation NOT to use Dex-Cool. In my sad
experience with several cars, it greatly hastens corrosion and plugging of
cooling system components and attacks numerous different gasket/seal
Green stuff is fine, G-05 is probably better. But no more Dex-Cool in my
I ran into an old post of yours while researching G-05 just a couple of
minutes ago. I never could figure out why someone would want to use
distilled water but for a completely different reason. In order to get a
good flush, it is best to back flush a cooling system. I think you wouldn't
get a good flush by simply opening the drains and pouring in distilled water
until it runs out clear. The back flushing tee and a garden hose work so
much better and quicker, lol.
Using the garden hose..... Depending on where you live, using the
garden hose to backflush may be more convenient BUT... doing so also
introduces a LOT of harmful minerals to the system. I happen to live
in a very hard water area and have replaced several radiators in cars
over the years due to mineral deposits clogging up the radiator
On Mon, 06 Oct 2003 19:42:41 GMT, "Philip ฎ"
|Using the garden hose..... Depending on where you live, using the
|garden hose to backflush may be more convenient BUT... doing so also
|introduces a LOT of harmful minerals to the system. I happen to live
|in a very hard water area and have replaced several radiators in cars
|over the years due to mineral deposits clogging up the radiator
Current thinking is that the residual tap water left in the block after
backflush & drain is beneficial. The balance of the water added should ideally
by RO water. Distilled if RO is NA.
Rex in Fort Worth
Except that it ISN'T. Any residual minerals have the potential for
screwing up the corrosion inhibitors in the coolant OR precipitating out
and clogging the radiator. Hard water (calcium) typically doesn't upset
corrosion inhibitors and in fact my help inhibit corrosion by keeping
the pH high... but it also precipitates out. Sulfurous water won't
precipitate out, but tends to lower pH and override corrosion
protection. Iron precipitates and "binds up" some of the corrosion
inhibitors. Chlorine and amine added to municipal water are corrosive to
iron engine components. Basically, any impurity commonly found in north
American tap water is at best a non-helpful thing to have in the coolant.
The safest course of action is to flush with hose water, drain
completely (including the block drain plugs), and fill with a mix of
distilled water and antifreeze.
Yes, that was a very good post...Now should I be a little bit worried with
my 2001 GMC Safari, and 2000 Impala with Dexcool...I have basically thrown
GM's 160,000 km recommended change frequency out the window and decided to
go to 80,000 kms change frequency on Dexcool...Its not that expensive to
change...Would you do the conversion process instead or live with it?
There is a problem with your theory. Dex-cool is a specific style antifreeze
in that the whole entire system has to be designed for it. It is like trying
to run R134a freon in an R12. Of course you are going to get all kinds of
grief with gaskets and the such. The basic chemical composition of Dex-cool
and a traditional glycol antifreeze are very different. Also, there is
nothing wrong with running a coolant that is long life for a longer period
of time. As long as you check the coolant from time to time for
discoloration from contamination and the such, you will be good to go. New
semi's that have engines worth as much as a new truck use this type of long
life coolant as well.
It is not a theory. They are simple "real-world" facts.
Not really. The cooling systems are physically no different. The coolant
goes from the radiator thru the engine, transmission, and heater core and
then back to the radiator.
This is a bad example. R134A and R12 do require 2 completely different
systems to run. DEX-COOL and conventional green do not require different
cooling systems and have the same chemical compostion which is ethylene
glycol. DEX-COOL uses organic inhibitors and conventional green uses
Yes there is! As long as no more water or antifreeze is added to a cooling
system, the freeze point is permanent, but the boilover and and protection
points do change.
Yes and no. Semis do have a long life coolant, but it is only good for
approxiamtely 300,000 miles in which it is time to rebuild the semi engine.
If hte engine is fine, then they pour in a bottle which extends the life of
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