open the bleeder screw just enough to see wetness start to form in the hole,
then compress, the barely opened bleeder will allow the fluid to squirt out
when compressing the caliper but isn't open enough to let too much run out
and trap air in the system. You can put a small hose on the end to catch
the squirting fluid also. This works well with ABS equipped vehicles to
prevent the fluid from pushing back up into the ABS system.
Dunno how the pro's do it; but us old guys who like
to do for ourselves just use a big "C" clamp...
Take the lid off the reservoir, and slowly SLOWLY
use the C clamp to push the piston back just far
enough to let you re-assemble.
After you're done, pump the pedal a few times before
you drive off.
Another common cause on an older vehicle is the rubber flex hose between the
frame and the caliper deteriorates internally and wont let the fluid back
off when the pedal is released. It sort of acts like a check valve. Hints
of this problem is the wheel won't turn by hand when jacked up, abnormal pad
wear only on this side, or the steering wheel pulls to that side for a
short while after braking. The cure is simple - replace BOTH flex lines as
the other one probably isn't going to last much longer either. Deteriorated
flex lines act almost the same as a sticking caliper piston.
"Opportunities are spawned from crisis"
Both sides should compress with nearly equal ease. You may have an internal
corrosion problem with this one.
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