1994 Olds 88, 3800 (L27) V6 engine.
In order to test the signals going from the cam and crankshaft sensors, I want
to build a breakout box to go between the ignition control module (male end)
and its 18 pin connector (female).
The question is: where can I get the 18 pin male and female connectors that GM
uses, without going to the local dealer?
remove all "f"'s from address
There is a place on the net called waytek wire which sells some of the
connectors, I don't know about the 18 pin ones though. Search for
merti-pak and weather-pak on google or another search engine, those are the
official names of the connectors.
Thanks for the lead.
I was in error: the Ingition Control Module has a 14 pin connector and it is in
fact the cause of my problems.
The female pins in the connector hood have become so sloppy tha they do not
make good contact with the male pins in the Control Module. (hmmmmmm)
I picked up a used connector from a junk yard and experimented with it. There
must be a tool that looks like a thin flat blade that can be used to extract
the female pins from the hood. The pins and wire can then be pushed through the
hood and repaired by bending the tang that makes contact with the male pin.
What a pin in the butt. You would think that GM would provide a repair kit. But
no. They want $1450 for a new wiring harness.
remove all "f"'s from address
i got my tool for doing this job at the local Case IH dealer...they have a
tool for it, you push it in where the female connections are, the tool
releases two "tangs" and then you pull on the wire, works real slick....not
sure if you have a local farm dealer or not where you live, but that is what
i would try....
1994 Olds 88, 3800 (L27) V6 engine
Well, while I was waiting to get a response, I designed a homemade "female pin
That cleared up problem codes P0342 and P0361.
Now I have to find what is causing P0341 and P0321.
You wouldn't happen to know where the "8 way ignition jummper harness
connector" is located under the hood would you?
dude that's scary, next time, just to make it a little easier, take a small
paper clip,lay it on the bench, flatten it a little with a hammer and use
that to release the detent from the front...Not to bust your balls, but you
must be an engineer... I got a friends who is one, and he does things like
that all the time... lol ... I bought 2 different terminal release terminals
from the tools trucks.... Mac, Snap on and such.. You can probably buy them
online somewhere...as for 341 and 321, are they current codes or
intermitant??? They can be a bitch... usually after I ohm out the wires from
the igjntion module to the ecm and crank sensor and make sure there is no
wiring issues, I start with the Crank Sensor.. I know it's not in the
diagnostics, but it can cause the codes to set... I have fixed tons of them
with that... something to do with the 3x and 12x not in sinc, or one
dropping out...as for a repair kit... you can buy new terminals, and a new
connector,just isnt cheap... heluva lot cheaper than a new harness, but for
diag, I just use a T-pin and backprobe... you can see the signals clearly on
a scope and go from there...the 8 pin connector is behind the alt... Bobo
Engineer? How'd ya guess.
Good idea on the flattned paper clip. Where were you with that idea when I
needed it this morning :)
There is one side benefit to having the drilled holes: if I pull off the ICM
connector again, I can quickly reset the tangs for another tight connection.
The pin holes should been put there by GM in the first place.
The codes are current. If I clear them, and start the car and run a continuous
scan and monitor the codes, '18X Interrupts Lost' comes first, then
'Intermittent Cam Signal' along with the MIL lamp, within a minute after start.
M341CNTR just keeps ticking up.
I am going to ohm out everything tomorrow.
PS: what is a T-pin and backprobe? Do you mean pick off a signal at the outer
access points of the red, white, and blue ECM connectors while they are still
connected to the ECM?
you should see the breakout box I made yesterday to pick off the signals at the
ICM connector. You would really be laughing. It looks like a mad octopus.
Gotta tell ya,m I was smiling the whole time I was reading this... Sorry I
missed the post earlier, coulda saved you a little time.... I don't think gm
should have put the holes there to begin with.. GM Doesn't want terminals
retensioned EVER!! in print anywhere you find terminal repair, we are to
replace the terminal, not repair/retension it.. Not that it's a bad idea,
but I liken it to putting a drain plug on a tranny pan.. Nice idea, but some
shmuck is going to shortcut the right way and turn every trans service into
a drain and fill.. as for retensioning the terminal(I never said I didn't do
it), I will actually use a small sewing needle and do it right from the
front, first one side , then the other, you can do a real good job if you
practice..This is no repair for a damaged terminal, or a corroded
one...Backprobing is taking a small pin thats nice and smooth... like a
safety pin (I have T shaped pins that have a nice pointy end) and inserting
it right next to the wire into the back of theconnector, it slides right in
and does not damage the weather pack or the terminals...This will let you
see real world measurements as they happen... You cannot distinguish
direction of signal, or which module is shorting a circuit, but once you
finda grounded signal, you can pull that single terminal and measure from
there isolating the suspect componant..as for the codes, sounds like you are
having a problem with the crank sensor, that's where the 18x comes from , it
also has a 3x signal... both are uses to synch each other... the M341CNTR??
Maybe that's the same as cam/crank correlation reset that we have displayed
on the shop tool... That's real hard to explain, I barely understand it...
kinda uses the combined or synched signal from the crank and makes sure
number one is where the cam says it is, if they don't match, then the reset
occurs... see if you can backprobe the 3x and 12 x signals amd see if they
are nice square waves.. little bit of oscillations are ok.... I'll try and
remember to bringa shop manual home tommorow, and I can give actual specs
and stuff.... Bobo
Tried a new crank position sensor last night. No go, same codes. I don't have a
"O" scope but will have one by tomorrow. I have one more diag flow chart to
follow: spark reference circuit.
Thinking ahead, do you happen to know which ICM's are compatible across model
years? I think any 1994-1995 GM with the "3800" L27 motor should work. Right?
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