88 Honda Accord high idle problem

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Just for kicks, try filling the coolant reservoir to the MAX mark and see if your problem goes away. On the fuel-injected engines, the computer messes up the timing / mixture if there's AIR in the top of the rad instead of coolant. Couldn't hurt for yours either.

'Curly'

SNIP

There are about forty different circuts on that carburator. If you are handy and LUCKY, you may be able to find the choke pull-off and choke speed cam and see if they are sticky or stuck. There are also float level problems with that car from junk in the float bowl. Good luck! bob

"Steve-88-Honda-Accord" wrote in news:6e5d63d168d7b@uwe:

If you're telling us the car idles at 1,500-1,750 rpm when dead-cold, that's normal.

If you're now saying it just takes too long to step off fast-idle, then either your choke is sticking closed, or your thermostat is too old.

How is your heater output? Seems to take a long time to get decently hot?

Don't change the carb. At this point, that's using a sledgehammer to kill a fly. Check out the other stuff first.

Don't bother replacing the carburetor unless it's physically worn out. Instead, go to your Honda dealer and ask for a "top clean kit." This kit was developed some time ago by a Honda tech looking for a faster way to overhaul Honda's carburetors. The kit includes everything you need including detailed instructions though new floats must be purchased separately (and you might want to get those too just to be on the safe side). With a "top clean kit" the carburetor is overhauled on the car by removing the air horn. It's fairly straight forward to do especially by an experienced tech.

Eric

Thank you. I was going to make a separate post about this, but the cooling system seems to be acting strangely. When I bought the car, the owner told me that a new radiator had been put in, and visually it does appear to be pretty new. Since then, on two occasions, the car has overheated and the cooling system had dumped all the coolant, though there is no apparent leak. On refilling the radiator, nothing leaks out. However, it would suddenly dump all the coolant. Then after refilling, it would be fine. It has been fine for a while now, maybe almost two months. There is sometimes the smell of coolant about the engine, though no visible signs of a leak in the engine compartment or on the ground. Puzzler.

Sounds like more than I can do. Overall the behavior of the vehicle suggests something is sticky, gummed up. Hoping it's as simple as cleaning it. Have tried the gas additive but does not seem to really help. Thank you.

Thank you. That sounds like a great option if Itseems like cleaning the card is the way to go. Any ideasa how much it costs and how long of an operation iot is?

It does not step off fast-idle. It takes at least 10 minutest for it to calm down.st

Choke sticking is something that cleaning can take care of? Spraying it out with carb cleaner?

Heater output is not good...weak and takes a while to come up. I had attributed this to a bad heater coil, but perhaps you are suggesting both problems are linked to a bad thermostat. By the way ambient temperature does not seem to be a factor...hot day, cold day...seems to behave almost the same.

I was going to make a separate post about this, but the cooling system seems to be acting strangely. When I bought the car, the owner told me that a new radiator had been put in, and visually it does appear to be pretty new. Since then, on two occasions, the car has overheated and the cooling system had dumped all the coolant, though there is no apparent leak. On refilling the radiator, nothing leaks out. However, it would suddenly dump all the coolant. Then after refilling, it would be fine. It has been fine for a while now, maybe almost two months. There is sometimes the smell of coolant about the engine, though no visible signs of a leak in the engine compartment or on the ground. Puzzler.

Thank you.

"Steve-88-Honda-Accord via CarKB.com" wrote in news:6e6813a0bdd85@uwe:

Does it gradually lose revs as it warms up? Or does it stay way up there then all of a sudden drop down to normal hot idle?

There is a LOT to choke control. Some of it is dependent on coolant temperature, most is not.

With all the checks and adjustments, I would strongly suggest you invest in a Helm manual. Either directly from

or from eBay.

Your interior heater operates by stealing heated coolant from the engine and routing it through the passenger compartment. If the thermostat is stuck open, the engine will run way cool, Your heater will be weak and the choke will try to stay partly-closed.

There's a LOT to a cooling system too. The rad is just the heat exchanger.

When it "dumps" the coolant, does it do so by spewing it through the overflow bottle? You may want to get a pressure check to confirm you don't have a blown head gasket.

Tegger wrote in news:Xns98E3CF8E9DAC1tegger@207.14.116.130:

And if the thermostat tends to stick SHUT, you'll get the overheating symptoms you're seeing.

You need to check or replace the following:

1) Thermostat (with OEM!) 2) Head gasket integrity

"Steve-88-Honda-Accord via CarKB.com" wrote in news:6e67fd564e2d8@uwe:

I wonder if the previous owner had an overheat problem,perhaps after having blown a head gasket? That would explain the coolant "dumps":Leaking combustion gasses pressurizing the coolant and forcing it out the expansion tank. What started it was probably a bad thermostat.(use OEM Honda TS only.)

Maybe that's why he sold it;he didn't want to spring for a headgasket replacement,especially if the head warped.

It's tough to tell since it happens as I am driving, but it seems like it is gradual.

Great. All I have is a Haynes manual and it is not very detailed. The Helm will be more detailed?

If I am not mistaken replacing the thermostat is not a difficult job and not expensive for the part. Am I right about that?

Yes it would apprear it is through the overflow bottle,, since it is full. But there is no sign of the cap coming off or any holes it the bottle.

Thank you!!

Thanks. Seems like a good hypothesis. If it is a head gasket, how much anm I looking at to fix it? What are the consequences of driving around with a blown head gasket? I can probably do the thermostat myself.

Sounds like it's operation is totally normal if it's cold. Even cold in the summer will usually run the choke for a short while. The normal fast idle setting is usually about 2500 on those engines. You are trying to fix what ain't broke, unless it does that when hot.. Doesn't seem to be the case. 8k rpm when cold? Ouch... When a carb choke starts to warm up, you tap the throttle lightly if you want it to drop down quicker. No need to goose it to 8k... If it's not warm enough, it's not going to drop down by racing it.. You can't really force it too much.. But once it's ready, just a light tap will do.. MK

"Steve-88-Honda-Accord via CarKB.com" wrote in news:6e6a2154c40fd@uwe:

This important. Check carefully. If it's gradual, then your choke is OK.

Oh, yes. Worth every penny, and more.

Yes. Use an OEM thermostat only. It's about $30.

Try replacng the rad cap. The pressure seal spring may just be weak. Use an OEM cap, too. That's also about $30.

You should replace the rad cap every few years as a matter of course. It's a "consumable". Every time you boil the coolant, you risk severe engine damage.

"Steve-88-Honda-Accord via CarKB.com" wrote in news:6e6a2a3d41115@uwe:

I don't know.Others here might know. It would depend on if the head is warped or not.

Losing all your coolant. warping your cylinder head. possibly damaging your radiator from overpressure.

yes,it's not hard. Use a Honda TS,not any aftermarket brand.

I haven't priced these kits in years. I really don't know what Honda is asking for them now. You could call around to one of your local dealers and you could also check

however you mayhave to give them a call since I haven't been able to find the kit whensearching through their part listings. How long does it take? Anexperienced tech should be able to get it done in about an hour give or takea bit. If it's your first time, give yourself a few hours time in a wellventilated garage with a fan on for fresh air. Eric

UPDATE

Well today the car started to rev up to 2k and beyond. Later in the day as I was on my way to get gas (the tank was near empty), I had it in neutral at a stop light with the engine idling at about 2 K and it just cut off. It would not restart. Pushed it to the side of the road and went to the gas station across the street, hoping it was just out of gas. Put in a gallon, still would not start. Put in another gallon, it did start but in Park or Neutral revs up to 2.5k and about 1.5 k in drive.

Well, I'll be taking it in to my mechanic tomorrow. Any preditctions on what he will tell me the problem is? Any way I can help him narrow it down to the most likely culprit and hopefully save myself some money? Thanks for all the replies here. You guys have been very helpful. Peace!

UPDATE

Well today the car started to rev up to 2k and beyond. Later in the day as I was on my way to get gas (the tank was near empty), I had it in neutral at a stop light with the engine idling at about 2 K and it just cut off. It would not restart. Pushed it to the side of the road and went to the gas station across the street, hoping it was just out of gas. Put in a gallon, still would not start. Put in another gallon, it did start but in Park or Neutral revs up to 2.5k and about 1.5 k in drive.

Well, I'll be taking it in to my mechanic tomorrow. Any preditctions on what he will tell me the problem is? Any way I can help him narrow it down to the most likely culprit and hopefully save myself some money? Thanks for all the replies here. You guys have been very helpful. Peace!