'84 240 tach

I just installed a large tach (that I bought cheap on ebay) into the cluster on my 84 245. It works, but the needle only gets up to zero when it's actually running at about 1200-1500 rpm. Is there any calibration available on this tach? Is it possible to pull the needle off and replace it in a different position?

Thanks Tom

Reply to
tom callaway
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Tom,

Tachs are made differently for 4, 6 and 8-cylinder cars. I suggest you hit the mfr's website and determine whether yours is user adjustable. Otherwise, an instrument repair shop should be able to help you.

Reply to
c.fiedler

I should have been more clear.

My car is a 1984 Volvo 245 non-turbo which came from the factory with the large clock installed in the cluster instead of a tachometer. The tach came out of a 1984 Volvo 240 turbo. Both are 4 cylinder 1984 Volvo

240's.

When the car is not running, the tach needle registers well below the zero mark on the scale. When it's idling, the tach needle moves up to just below the zero mark. When I rev the engine, the needle moves up apropiately

I haven't yet checked it against my dwell/tach meter to see exactly how much it's off, but it seems to be zeroing problem. Do you know if the needle is splined or press-fit on it's shaft? If so, I should be able to pull the needle off and re-install it in the zero postition with the car not running. Perhaps when the tach was removed from it's original car, the needle came off and was put back on in the wrong position.

I just thought someone on here might know. I don't want to pull it out of the instrument cluster and break it trying to find out.

Reply to
tom callaway

Were it *my* instrument, I would remove it from the cluster and trudge off to an instrument shop. But that's me. Perhaps you're more adventurous.

Reply to
c.fiedler

Well, since it's *my* instrument (I paid a less than 12 bucks for it) and the nearest instrument shop is at least 110 miles away from my humble home in southeastern Oklahoma, I think I may just make the "okie choice" and try to fix it, or live with it. I suppose if I break the needle off I can JB Weld a toothpick on there pointing toward the zero. If I do that, I promise to paint the toothpick orange.

Thanks, Tom

Reply to
tom callaway

Before you do that, might I suggest you inquire of maybe IPD,

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as to what might be the issue. I would hate to see you bugger up the instrument only to find there's a simple solution. Their guys are pretty smart.

OTOH, ya got twelve bucks in the sucker so what the...

Reply to
c.fiedler

First, verify where the needle sits when the car is off. If the needle sits on zero until the switch is turned on the problem is electrical rather than mechanical. There are likely to be two electrical adjustments: one for zero set and one for calibration. They are almost certainly not marked like that. You can try adjusting either adjustment (assuming you don't see more than two) by carefully marking or noting the exact position of the adjustment and turning it one way and the other. If that didn't have the desired effect set it back to the original setting and repeat with the other.

Most needles are press fit onto the shaft. I haven't seen one that was cemented on, but some are so tight it can make you wonder. Getting it off takes care and a bit of patience (unless you have the slick tool) with a pair of blades on each side and even prying pressure. You can try using your fingernails in a pinching fashion but they are usually pretty tight for that. Putting it back on is easier - press it on gently and verify the needle is zeroed, then push with your fingertip to seat it. Never tap on the needle to seat it as the other end is typically in a garnet jewel that can be broken by impact.

For smaller adjustments, look just under the face at the top of the meter movement. The upper spring is normally fastened to a moveable plate with a tab bent so the plate can be rotated to zero the meter. It doesn't have a lot of range so I doubt it will fix your basic problem. Makes me wonder how it ended up so far off, though.

Mike

Reply to
Michael Pardee

That's the way I figured it. I just remembered that Dave Barton's website offers those white-faced gauge dials, so I went there and found very detailed instructions on how to get the needle off and back on. I think I'll just pull it back out, zero the needle and see how it compares to the dwell/tach. Since this car is NA and has 24 years and

240,000 miles on it, I doubt I'll be going anywhere near the redline even when passing all the oilfield trucks that clog up the mountain roads around here. But the clock was broken anyway so it was worth a shot.

Thanks (and thanks to Dave Barton) Tom

Reply to
tom callaway

Thanks, Mike. I'll pull it back out and see what I can do with it. Great information there. Just what I was looking for.

Tom

Reply to
tom callaway

@ Michael:

You seem to know a lot about these instruments: Do you (or anyone else) know if Volvo provides a tach for a 240 with a DIESEL engine? I have a tach in my instrument now, but it is not functional because it came from a non-diesel car.

Reply to
Jakob Griffel

Sorry - my knowledge doesn't come from Volvo tachs as such but from being enlisted for a while to help in an aviation instrument shop back when I was an avionics tech.

Any diesel guys know about this?

Mike

Reply to
Michael Pardee

This may or may not be of any help. In 1984 I outfitted a new 240D with a full set of VDO gauges and considered adding a tach. At the time VDO made a tach for the 240d. Whether they do now is unknown. Consider calling VDO.

Reply to
Roadie

I just pulled the tach out and gently pulled on the needle hub. The needle came off with hardly any effort at all. When I gently but firmly pushed it on again (pointing at zero) it seemed to be more tightly attached than it was initially. Seems to me that this wasn't the first time the needle had been off, so my theory that it had come off and been put back on in a different position may have been correct. I checked it against the dwell/tach meter and it's reasonably in compliance up to the

3000 rpm limit on the dwell meter. Who knows how accurate the meter is.

Anyway, It's another victory for Okie Engineering. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. If it IS broke, ya got nuthin' to lose.

Thanks to All

Tom

Reply to
tom callaway

Sometimes we miss the obvious and simple solutions....congratulations!

Reply to
Roadie

All the cars that this tach will fit came with 4 cylinder engines.

There is an adjustment pot in the tach as I recall, it's possible you have a fault though like a cracked solder joint on the circuit board, unless someone twiddled with it these don't tend to go out of calibration.

Reply to
James Sweet

Why would you take a 23 year old tach to an instrument repair shop? One could probably buy 3 or 4 working ones for the cost of having one repaired.

Reply to
James Sweet

There was one available, it may even be the same guage. Some Diesel cars used a mechanical cable driven tach, but it was not uncommon for there to be a magnetic pickup or similar electrical device to provide a tach signal from the engine. Unfortunately I'm not familiar with these motors, I've only ever seen two of them and they were both in 700 series cars, which both did have tachometers.

Reply to
James Sweet

dont know about your tacho but if its like my wifes speedo needle it came off easy and now reads 5 klm faster than the car is actually going with no more tickets .Some like to nudge the limit some like to shove the limit .

Reply to
John Robertson

_____ Yes, a 240D tach was/is available. I installed one on a 1984 240 diesel wagon. Its signal comes from the alternator. It is NOT the same tach as the one for the 4 cyl petrol engine. One has to run the signal line as part of the installation process.

Reply to
jch

Great! Thank you for that information :-) I looked at my alternator and found that it is at BOSCH (don't know if you use them in the U.S.). It has an unused output that is signed "W". Could that be for the tach-signal maybe...?

Reply to
Jakob Griffel

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