Is there a long metal screw that goes into the adjuster? See if a plastic
end-piece has broken off.
You really should consider visiting a you-pull type wrecking yard. They're
very educational in the sense that you need to do some disassembly to get
the new part, so you discover two things:
1) How it goes together, and
2) What an unbroken part looks like.
Congratulations! And you did it all on your own, too.
Why I didn't think to mention the off-kilter plastic bit in your original
photo is beyond me.
I have a feeling that Phillips screw was somebody's fudge-fix for a
previous problem. Possibly the same thing you're experiencing now.
If not, visit a wrecking yard. That kind of part costs pennies at a U-Pull.
Plus you get to discover how it all goes together as you pull the assembly
apart in the yard.
$25.00. And no I'm not pulling it. Removing the bumper and replacing
the headlight is a piece of cake. It's gonna have to wait though.
Right now replacing the radiator on my Miata is my top priority. Has
a small crack at the neck and I've been putting it off for several
months because it's been so damn hot here in FL.
if the system is not pressurized properly because the rad has a crack,
you're boiling the coolant, getting poor coolant distribution because of
the bubbles, and getting local heating inside the block and head. this
will cause the head gasket to go - maybe not immediately, but soon. you
should always replace anything like a failed radiator /immediately/ for
but the chances are, if you've been driving in this condition for
months, the damage is already done - start shopping around for head
gasket quotes. clue: it'll cost you a good deal more then the price of
a radiator, which you still need to replace. "saving" $125 has now cost
big picture, if you can't afford to maintain a vehicle, you shouldn't
drive it. your willingness to hazard the night vision of other drivers
because you won't spend $25 on a headlight being a perfect case in point.
i confess, you have me thinking you weren't going to do this when you
said: "$25.00. And no I'm not pulling it. Removing the bumper and
replacing the headlight is a piece of cake. It's gonna have to wait though."
maybe you missed what you wrote when you snipped everything.
so don't drive the miata until you've fixed it, and don't drive the
accord until you've fixed it. should be easy enough for even you to
Is that for the whole lamp-assembly? I meant "pennies" for the actual
broken pieces. The u-pull yards often don't care if you buy the whole
assembly or just a piece of it. They-pull yards care, a lot, on account of
the cost of having a guy employed to provide the labor that you supply for
free to a u-pull yard.
You mean the yard is a "they pull"? I stay out of those.
Lucky you. It's 40 up here as I write. It gets down to 25 at night; the
frost really is on the pumpkin up here.
But summer after next we're going to FL for vacation. Haven't been down
there since our honeymoon, 17-years ago.
For the assembly. I'm pretty sure the part that broke is part of the
headlight, but after looking at your other comment that IS an
aftermarket headlight. I bought the car with 25K on it, so obviously
it was replaced before I bought it. No wonder it's a crap design.
Thanks for the tip on the Stanley logo. The salvage yard near my house
has 2 headlights.....if they aren't OEM I'll keep looking.
AFAIK, there is only one decent you pull it salvage yard here. And it
is miles from my house. Too far to drive and I really don't have the
time anymore to pull my own parts. I can't even remember the last time
I bought something from a salvage yard. Haven't needed anything.
Not fun working on a car when it's 90+ degrees in my garage,
especially something that time consuming.
$25 is a reasonable price (new is about $300). Just check for excessive
sandblasting on the lenses and for moisture evidence inside the
Yards will often pull headlamps from different cars to make a pair, and
they therefore usually have slightly differing amounts of sandblasting.
It doesn't affect function, but the mismatched appearance can be a bit
off-putting to some.
Depending on the yard, the lamp may or may not come with its backing
plate. If your backing plate is OEM, you just swap it over. If your
backing plate is aftermarket, you'll need the OEM backing plate as well
as the OEM lamp itself.
It's that cheap Chinese shit bodyshops use because the insurance
companies won't pay for OEM. Honda headlights DO NOT break like that,
which is why I suspected damage.
The adjuster didn't look right to me (OEM were all black, AFAIK), and
I'm pretty sure the OEM lights have no springs.
From what I've seen over the years, all front lamps are Stanley, and all
rear ones are Koito. Anything other than that will be aftermarket,
unless Honda's recently started using other suppliers.
If you find a Stanley bulb in the headlight, then it's the original one
that shipped with the car. Just about nobody replaces them with new OEM.
The Stanley bulbs are top-notch quality.
It gets to 90 up here in the middle of the summer, so I know what you
mean. I sweat like crazy in my overalls, with sweat dripping into my
eyes and onto my workpiece.
My old '82 Corolla needed to have its valves adjusted with the engine
HOT. Trying to do that in the summer was a nightmare!
If you replace the driveshaft with a new one, remember to open up the inner
boot's small band (once installed) to let some air in!!! Otherwise the
inner boot will pucker and split in a few hundred miles. You'll need a new
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