A Good Honda Forum?

Ron wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@fh19g2000vbb.googlegroups.com:

Congratulations! And you did it all on your own, too.

Why I didn't think to mention the off-kilter plastic bit in your original photo is beyond me.

I have a feeling that Phillips screw was somebody's fudge-fix for a previous problem. Possibly the same thing you're experiencing now.

If not, visit a wrecking yard. That kind of part costs pennies at a U-Pull. Plus you get to discover how it all goes together as you pull the assembly apart in the yard.

Ron wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@h21g2000vbh.googlegroups.com:

Is there a long metal screw that goes into the adjuster? See if a plastic end-piece has broken off.

You really should consider visiting a you-pull type wrecking yard. They're very educational in the sense that you need to do some disassembly to get the new part, so you discover two things:

Who - me?

:)

snipped-for-privacy@fh19g2000vbb.googlegroups.com:

I dunno. The other headlight that was replaced after I wrecked it has a slightly different design. Maybe that was a weak point that Honda improved.

$25.00. And no I'm not pulling it. Removing the bumper and replacing the headlight is a piece of cake. It's gonna have to wait though. Right now replacing the radiator on my Miata is my top priority. Has a small crack at the neck and I've been putting it off for several months because it's been so damn hot here in FL.

if the system is not pressurized properly because the rad has a crack, you're boiling the coolant, getting poor coolant distribution because of the bubbles, and getting local heating inside the block and head. this will cause the head gasket to go - maybe not immediately, but soon. you should always replace anything like a failed radiator /immediately/ for this reason.

but the chances are, if you've been driving in this condition for months, the damage is already done - start shopping around for head gasket quotes. clue: it'll cost you a good deal more then the price of a radiator, which you still need to replace. "saving" $125 has now cost you >$1000.

big picture, if you can't afford to maintain a vehicle, you shouldn't drive it. your willingness to hazard the night vision of other drivers because you won't spend $25 on a headlight being a perfect case in point.

An yet another one of your lies. Point out to me where I said I wasn't going to spend $25.00 on the headlight.

And for your information, I have 4 vehicles to drive. So, once again, you are clueless.

i confess, you have me thinking you weren't going to do this when you said: "$25.00. And no I'm not pulling it. Removing the bumper and replacing the headlight is a piece of cake. It's gonna have to wait though."

maybe you missed what you wrote when you snipped everything.

so don't drive the miata until you've fixed it, and don't drive the accord until you've fixed it. should be easy enough for even you to understand.

Ron wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@f33g2000yqh.googlegroups.com:

Is that for the whole lamp-assembly? I meant "pennies" for the actual broken pieces. The u-pull yards often don't care if you buy the whole assembly or just a piece of it. They-pull yards care, a lot, on account of the cost of having a guy employed to provide the labor that you supply for free to a u-pull yard.

You mean the yard is a "they pull"? I stay out of those.

Lucky you. It's 40 up here as I write. It gets down to 25 at night; the frost really is on the pumpkin up here.

But summer after next we're going to FL for vacation. Haven't been down there since our honeymoon, 17-years ago.

Ron wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@t35g2000yqj.googlegroups.com:

Possibly. Does the name "Stanley" appear on both headlamp lenses? If so, then they're OEM headlamps, and your theory of running product-improvement may be correct.

snipped-for-privacy@f33g2000yqh.googlegroups.com:

For the assembly. I'm pretty sure the part that broke is part of the headlight, but after looking at your other comment that IS an aftermarket headlight. I bought the car with 25K on it, so obviously it was replaced before I bought it. No wonder it's a crap design. Thanks for the tip on the Stanley logo. The salvage yard near my house has 2 headlights.....if they aren't OEM I'll keep looking.

AFAIK, there is only one decent you pull it salvage yard here. And it is miles from my house. Too far to drive and I really don't have the time anymore to pull my own parts. I can't even remember the last time I bought something from a salvage yard. Haven't needed anything.

Not fun working on a car when it's 90+ degrees in my garage, especially something that time consuming.

Ron wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@r14g2000yqa.googlegroups.com:

$25 is a reasonable price (new is about $300). Just check for excessive sandblasting on the lenses and for moisture evidence inside the lens/reflector.

Yards will often pull headlamps from different cars to make a pair, and they therefore usually have slightly differing amounts of sandblasting. It doesn't affect function, but the mismatched appearance can be a bit off-putting to some.

Depending on the yard, the lamp may or may not come with its backing plate. If your backing plate is OEM, you just swap it over. If your backing plate is aftermarket, you'll need the OEM backing plate as well as the OEM lamp itself.

It's that cheap Chinese shit bodyshops use because the insurance companies won't pay for OEM. Honda headlights DO NOT break like that, which is why I suspected damage.

The adjuster didn't look right to me (OEM were all black, AFAIK), and I'm pretty sure the OEM lights have no springs.

From what I've seen over the years, all front lamps are Stanley, and all rear ones are Koito. Anything other than that will be aftermarket, unless Honda's recently started using other suppliers.

If you find a Stanley bulb in the headlight, then it's the original one that shipped with the car. Just about nobody replaces them with new OEM. The Stanley bulbs are top-notch quality.

It gets to 90 up here in the middle of the summer, so I know what you mean. I sweat like crazy in my overalls, with sweat dripping into my eyes and onto my workpiece.

My old '82 Corolla needed to have its valves adjusted with the engine HOT. Trying to do that in the summer was a nightmare!

On Nov 4, 9:13=A0pm, Tegger wrote:.

The passenger side (OEM) is spring loaded.

But I say, screw it, literally.

Ron wrote in news:6f06b11c-ec22-40ce-a17c-96b94d02d154 @k30g2000vbn.googlegroups.com:

Then obviously I didn't know.

Any port in a storm, eh?

If it works, there's no point in spending any more time or money on it.

While I've got your ear, I was doing some inspection today and noticed that the ball joint boot on the L/F upper control arm has a small tear in and is leaking grease. Can I just replace the boot?

d154

Never mind. It's the outer CV joint boot that has a split in it and slinging grease out.

Ron wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@s4g2000yql.googlegroups.com:

If you replace the driveshaft with a new one, remember to open up the inner boot's small band (once installed) to let some air in!!! Otherwise the inner boot will pucker and split in a few hundred miles. You'll need a new boot band.

snipped-for-privacy@s4g2000yql.googlegroups.com:

Thanks, but I plan on using this method.

snipped-for-privacy@s4g2000yql.googlegroups.com:

BTW, I was totally stumped by the dog and Queen song. I was like, WTF is this guy doing???????