for the honda, here's a trick:
warm the motor up in the usual way, then come home, drive the car up
onto some ramps, then go inside and have breakfast. after an hour, go
back out and spin the oil filter off. you'll find there's no spill
because the filter has drained. but the motor's still warm enough for
the pan to drain properly. [not that this is really important with more
modern oils, especially not synthetics.]
in my experience, spill is the single most objectionable thing about
changing oil on a honda. but it's so avoidable if you act as above.
I will try that, thanks. Usually when changing the oil, I drop it in the
evening and refill it in the morning.
I'm not worried about getting out a few more drops, though, it is
usually just the way my scatter-brained schedule works out.
While the oil is draining I will almost always get distracted and then
get involved in something else. Yeah, it's a problem.
There are quite a few things that I like better about the mid-1990's
Accords than the same period of Camry, but the oil changes definitely
goes to the Camry.
The setup on the Camry places the filter right next to the exhaust
manifold. Not sure if that matters, it doesn't appear to be a big factor
Also, the Camry filter sits pointed up at a slight forward angle. Most
oil filters I have seen are mounted horizontally on the engine.
It makes me wonder if mounting it on the side of the engine is just for
design convenience or if there is an operating advantage to it.
Not that my lazy a__ will do this but how is the '03 Accord 4 cyl auto
to change the oil? I used to do it on a chevy I had without ramps
and it wasn't too bad tho of course I had to squirm a little
underneath to reach the oil filter. As another poster said, I'm
gettting older and lazier to change oil nowadays. Just not as fun as
it once was. Actually my biggest gripe back when, wasn't the labor
but where to get rid of the oil. That was and likely still is the
biggest pain for me.
On 3/30/10 10:31 AM, in article firstname.lastname@example.org,
All these cars are pretty low to the ground now, its pretty difficult to do
it without ramps. On the bright side, at least here in Texas, all the auto
parts stores are required to accept used oil for (free) disposal.
On 3/30/10 4:05 PM, in article email@example.com,
I use a 5 gallon plastic jerry can. Its good for three or maybe four changes
before it gets too heavy or too full.
They have a barrel, usually in the back of the store (O'Reilly & Autozone),
or if they have maintenance bays, it'll be in one of the bays (Pep boys).
You lug it in and pour it into the barrel yourself.
Pretty easy at this point. :) You can leave the left side as is, but I
usually raise both sides and set the car on jack stands (makes it easy
to check CV boots on both sides at the same time). I remove the R/F
wheel, which gives me a lot of room. Open the drain plug & drain the oil
... new washer & use a torque wrench to tighten the drain plug. I can
remove & replace the filter (OEM) from a sitting position. Once the
drain plug's been retightened - I'm done under the car.
The local Autozones accept used engine oil for recycling, so no problem
there (I save a gallon container from spring water, which takes the bulk
of the used oil, with a bit in a quart bottle the new oil came in). I
try to buy my new engine oil (Castrol GTX 5W20) from them as a thank you
for recycling used oil (pretty much don't shop there otherwise). I have
a hydraulic floor jack and stands which makes things pretty easy, plus
at this point I know which wrench to use for which nut (19mm lug nuts &
17mm drain plug). If I'm pressed for time, it's pretty quick.
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