According to my Chilton book, there should be a large multi-function unit
above the left kick panel. This unit controls the operation of the wipers,
seat belt buzzer, key chime, and other features that depend on time
measurements. There is also a separate intermittent relay in the right rear
corner of the engine compartment (under the relay box).
Helm manual places it under the hood, attached to the fuse/relay box at the
firewall on the passenger side. If I read the picture right it is at the
front outside corner *under* the box, not inside the box itself. No wonder
you couldn't find it anywhere. Wiring colors grn/blk, blu/wht, blk, grn/red
Thanks for all your replies. I'll look for it in the morning.
As for what is wrong... I posted something a week ago about how the
wipers don't want to turn off no matter what position they are in.
The only thing I could do is remove the wiper fuse, but that also kill
the fans for my radiator and A/C. (no idea what these two have in
common, but I know they are wired somehow)
Somebody suggested removing the stalk plug for the wiper switch and I
did that, but it still kills the fans. I really have no clue what the
heck is going on, so I want to see if maybe the wiper relay was bad,
but I couldn't find it.
Thanks for all your help everybody.
A lot depends on whether the wire was burned at the end or evenly along its
length. If only at the end, the relay socket is bad and will heat it up
again. Replacing the socket is the only fix short of soldering the relay to
the wire. It isn't likely to start a fire, but it will be an ongoing
headache until fixed.
If the wire is burned along the length, you need to check the fuse rating.
Fuse ratings are normally selected to protect the wiring.
The wire was burnt closer to the socket. (Inch or so) It looked like
at one point somebody had spliced into it. There was electrical tape
hanging on the wire and exposing a section. I cut the wire, added an
extension and soldered it back together and all is well. It should hold
just fine, and electrical fire would really have sucked.
If the failure is right at the socket what you'll probably find is that the
contact in the relay socket is darkened: oxidized. It's the usual failure
mode for high current spring contacts. Dunno which comes first, but it is a
process where the contact starts heating up, oxidizing, heating more...
until the temperature gets high enough to detemper the metal and the tension
drops. From there the failure goes fast, generating lots of heat and burning
the contacts, often melting the socket. Not normally a fire hazard, though -
the heat is too localized.
However, if it is actually at the scabrous splice you've probably fixed it.
You'll know for sure within a week or two either way :-)
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