That's what I'd call livin' close to the edge!
If you have anything that breaks off and needs a weld-like repair with
real strength properties, try Devcon titanium putty.
When I freshend the engine in my Studebaker P/U ten years ago, the pan
was like Swiss cheese. I spent an evening cleaning it out, coated the
entire inside with a skim coat of Devcon and it still is holding up ten
I don't know what you mean by a "left hand" drill. If one drills a bolt
out, a conventional drill is used. I got my experience years ago in
aircraft manufacturing having had to drill out lots of rivets/fasteners.
So much so, I don't like doing anymore!
Tool stores sometimes carry drills (the part that contacts the work, as
opposed to the motor piece) that turn CCW in use instead of CW. Example at
http://tinyurl.com/2zqy4y They are often used to drill pilot holes for
easy-outs, but sometimes just the drag and occasional grab will unscrew
bolts... say those who have used them.
drill BITS is the word you're looking for.
I've used RH bits before to drill out broken bolts and had the bit turn the
piece out the back side of the work.
As far as easyouts go,the newer sort that are short and have a shoulder are
supposed to work the best.I never had much luck with the standard kind of
easyout.It seems like screwing them in expands the bolt around the hole you
just drilled,and makes it harder to turn out.
Now, my old wood shop teacher was adamant that "bits" were the wood boring
devices used with a brace; they have a flat face, centering point and
cutting points at the ends of the face. What we are talking about, he
insisted, are "twist drills" and are used with a "drill motor." :-) Of
course, everybody knows them as drill bits, but I just know he's lurking
with a ruler to rap my knuckles if I betray his teaching.
I also have had very limited success with easyouts. The grip never seems to
match the tightness of the bolt. I've seen the newer type you describe but
haven't tried one.
The same vernacular was used in my early days of aerospace
manufacturing. The best drill "motors" were pnuematic as they had very
good throttling control which is need when drilling out rivet heads to
drive the rest through the work. Of course, the desired result is to
install rivets to spec correctly the first time...
This project will be going to the machine shop Monday morning for
removal of the crank bolt. Upon teardown today, all of the bearings
appeard perfect as did the crank shaft and I'm going to see how the
cylinders clean up.
Dropped the shaft off at the machine shop and by the time I got home,
there was a message that the bolt was removed.
Turned out, he simply used a little "easy out lube" and it spun right
out. No charge to boot.
These guys came highly recommended for work on smaller engines from the
folks at my regular machine shop that does traditional/vintage engine work.
I'll probably take the bare block over to have 'em look at it as I think
it will clean up fine with honing.
Life is good...
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