Two questions

When you replace the alternator on a 2003 Hyundai Elantra, do you also have to replace the regulator?

When I brought my 2013 to the dealer for a recall item, I asked about the seizing engine issue on this model. They had put a warning sensor in it previously and the guy told me that now my engine was warrantied for life? What does that mean exactly.

Reply to
tonita
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Most consumer alternators for about the last 40 years have had built in regulators. My 06 has the regulator built in.

Warranty... there is no telling what they mean by "life". Your life? Car's life? Sensor's life? Engine's life? You will need to get it in writing and read and understand the fine print.

Reply to
Paul in Houston TX

As an example of the problems in interpreting "Life"...

Bought a saucepan with a 'lifetime' guarantee. It broke.

Took it back to the retailer to claim a replacement.

"But the guarantee is for the products lifetime. It is now dead. Sorry".

Reply to
Flop

So on the 2003 alternator, it was replaced and it ran for a bit and then died again. Battery is fine. What can it be?/

Reply to
tonita

What was the voltage at the battery terminals at about 1000 rpm with the new alternator? What is the voltage at the terminals when the car is turned off? What is the amp drain when the car is off?

Reply to
Paul in Houston TX

It will take a little time to get those answers. I gave the car to my sister in another state and her son has the car in another location. She's had it for over a year and only got to drive it a very short period of time due to this issue. I did replace the battery a couple of years before this happened. It started when the power steering belt broke not soon after I replaced THAT. She was told it was the alternator and replaced that and was able to drive it for about a month (just errand driving) and it quit again. Got another alternator and it happened again. I will try to get those answers though. What are you thinking here?

Reply to
tonita

Car Lead-Lead acid batteries are considered fully charged around 13.2 volts. The charging circuit should supply at least 13.2. 14.4 would be even better. Put your volt meter across the terminals with car off. If charged is should read at least 12v to 13.2v. Less than 12v means something is wrong... bad battery or bad charging circuit. Start the car, turn off all accessories, run at 1000 rpm and the reading should be around 14.2 plus/minus 0.2v. Next, disconnect the negative terminal, car off, doors shut, etc. Measure the amp draw between the neg battery terminal and the neg wire. It should be less than about 0.7 amps. Anything much over that and it could mean trunk light on, key not turning fully off, etc.

Reply to
Paul in Houston TX

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