I am looking for the instructions and if possible a diagram or
pictures on how to set the timing belt on a 1999 rodeo 4 cylinder 2.2
ltr. I am replacing the head gasket and will be going up with a new
water pump, timing belt, and any thing else on the top end that looks
questionable. Any advice on head gasket replacement on this type of
engine is also welcome. I understand this is an engine design from an
Australian engine manufacturer. I guess that's why I cant find too
much info. Thanks in advance for your help.
I did this on my '98 Amigo with the X22RE engine - 2.2L DOHC.
Cylinder head bolt torgue specs
To tighten the head bolts: tighten the bolts in the following sequence for
Front of Engine
Step 1 = 18 Ft-Lbs
Step 2 = 90 Degrees
Step 3 = 90 Degrees
Step 4 = 90 Degrees
To time time the valves, rotate the crank shaft so that the notch on the
front of the shaft is in the 6 o'clock position. The intake camshaft has
only one timing mark, which lines up with a delta (dart or "V") shape on the
front of the engine housing. The camshaft timing mark will be in about the
10 o'clock position. The exhaust camshaft has 2 timing marks, one of which
lines up with a similar delta on the front of the engine housing in about
the 2 o'clock position. Sorry, but my engine is back together, and I don't
remember which one is correct, but I think it was the one that was further
clockwise. Before removing the old timing belt, you should rotate the crank
shaft until the timing marks are aligned and either draw a picture of take
When the timing belt is on, but before adjusting the tensioner, rotate the
crankshaft through at least 720 degrees (2 full rotations) and ensure that
all the timing marks line up correctly. I think the bolt on the crank shaft
is 22mm. This is also a good way to ensure that none of the valves and
pistons are interfering with each other as it goes through the entire valve
sequence - you should be able to feel resistance, and back off, double chech
things if it doesn't feel right (do this with the spark plugs removed so
you're not fighting compression). Finally, the tensioner has marks for
where it should be adjusted for a new or used timing belt - used is one that
has been run for about 5 minutes. You should use a new timing belt - cheap
insurance once you're this far into a repair like this.
I purchased my Amigo used in the winter, then considerably overheated it
that first summer because of a clogged radiator and the overheating blew the
cylinder head gasket, and cracked the exhaust manifold. The block and head
were well within the warpage limits, so I replace the gasket and manifold
and I still get 24 mpg, even with 191,000 miles on it.
I hope this helps. I would like to hear what other questions or progress
Forgot to mention, you should probably get new cylinder head bolts too. I
was doing mine "on the cheap" given the mileage on my Amigo and what I paid
for it to begin with, but I had 3 bolts that I could only complete the last
step of the torguing sequence to about 75 degrees before I stripped the torx
head bolts. That, and the fact the the bolts are designed to be installed
only once because they stretch while being tightened, and it's a pretty high
stress (hence stretch) they endure during the tightening sequence.
With the amout of abuse this engine has suffered and how little it has cost
me to repair it, I'm very impressed with design and manufacturing of it.
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