I just recently flushed my cooling system in conjunction with other work being performed on my 1995 Honda Passport. After flushing the system, I added a Radiator Anti-Rust bottle to my system. It's white in color. The coolant is green in color.
Originally, and before I added the Anti-Rust, the car would overheat after about 2 minutes of running. This ended up being a mis-installation of the thermostat and, therefore, the system was re-drained, the thermostat installed correctly, and now the overheating problem has disappeared.
However, it seems that the coolant in the system isn't flowing through the radiator.
Question: When the car is running and the radiator cap is removed, shouldn't the coolant in the radiator be flowing THROUGH the radiator rather than remaining still?
The color of the fluid in the radiator is still a milky white. There was enough fluid in the rest of the cooling system to offset the white color of the Anti-Rust and all fluid should be green, or at least a very light green. The fluid is white.
It would seem that the fluid beyond the radiator is not moving through the system. Yet the car is not overheating.
Does this cooling system have an air pocket in it which is preventing flow along the system lines? If so, how does one remove the air or, in other words, "burp" the system on this vehicle?
Forgive me being long-winded, but my wife just brought up another idea:
Also re-did the timing belt during the work process. It now turns out my idea of re-using the hydraulic tensioner for the timing belt was a bad idea. When I first start up my car in the mornings or at various parts of the day where the car has been sitting, there is a very nasty squealing sound which is heard until the car idles up. I believe this to be the timing belt being either too tight or too loose because of the faulty tensioner unit (a new one is on order).
At some times in the mornings, the squealing is so bad that the car shuts itself off. I would tend to think the car is shutting off because the tensioner is causing the belt to be too tight. Any thoughts?
On the other hand, is the tensioner too loose and, therefore, the water pump isn't functioning properly because of this? Yet, the car is not overheating. Or is it overheating, just not at the point where a temperature sensor picks up this fact?
Final question, it seems at some point during my work the idler pulley was discovered to be pretty loose. I do not remember loosening it. My mechanic friend re-tightened the bolt to it. Did THIS get tightended too tightly and is this causing the car to squeal and shut off (I doubt this)? What is the correct torque for the idler pulley on this vehicle?
After reaching a good idle, the car runs great. Been driving it for about
250 miles post work being done. The squeal's got to go, though. It's pretty annoying.Thanks for any advice/input.
AJPDLA