2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7 Engine stalling

For those of you who have been following this thread, I thought I would provide an update.

Since my last post, I had my jeep mechanic pull and reseat all fuses, relays, etc etc. He replaced the CPS (2nd time) as well as the cam positon sensor. He also replaced the battery cable ends as well as checked all the grounds, all wiring, the plug to the PCM, etc.

Well, I guess it was too good to be true, thinking that my Jeep problem was completely fixed. Although I drove the jeep for three weeks and over 500 miles before I experienced any problem, I have recently had the following glitches, some of which are precisely the same symptoms as before (engine shutting down.... all gauges to zero.... engine crank but not restart until at least an hour later) while the other glitch scenerio is new.

Glitch # 1 (new):

While sitting stopped and the transmission shift in the "park" position, running the engine just to keep the air conditioning on while I wait to get started, the engine just simply shuts off very abruptly. However, the gauges do not flip to zero like they have done with my chronic problem, and I am able to restart the engine immediately. Please note that this has happened on three different occasions, all while I am sitting parked with the engine idling at about 700 rpms. (If I had not been having what appears to be chronic electrical or computer related problems, I would have suspected some fuel-delivery problem such as a fuel filter, fuel pump, etc. )

Glitch # 2 (original problem)

In addition to the above unusual glitches, I did have two repeats of the original problem. While driving down the highway at 60 mph, the engine abruptly shut off, and all of my gauges went to zero (by the way, the radio stayed on). I allowed the car to slow down so that I could find a safe place to stop, and when I slowed down to approximately 30 mph, the gauges all abruptly came back on and the engine started running again! Again, I have only had this happen twice during my 500 miles of driving three weeks after my last repair.

One thing that I had not noted before, as I did not recognize it as a possible "pattern." On two of the engine and gauge shutdown episodes, they occured as I had just completed a low-speed "U" turn. As I fully completed the turn, the engine shut down, and the gauges went to zero. After I waited about an hour after each glitch, the gauges would again return to normal, and the engine started just fine.

From everything that I have read and have been told, including some comments here, it seems that I may well have a "flaky" PCM.

After reviewing the history of this, what would be your next best attempt at repair ? Is it "more likely" or "less likely" that it is the PCM ??

Could a flaky pcm cause an abrupt engine shutdown with gauges being disabled and the car not start again right away in one glitch, and later cause an engine shutdown when the car just shuts off, but gauges stay normal, and it will restart right away ?

Thanks for staying with this thread, and any continued interest and ideas... I do appreciate it...

James

As I haven't been following this, it may have already been tried, but we had a mustang years ago, same thing, dead no gauges, first time happened on a rainy dark night, on a 1 road island, no street lights, that was little too out of a movie for us. Anyway father-in-law had us sit in driveway with engine running as he poked and proded every wire and connection in engine bay, eventually finding one plug that would shut it down everytime.

i own a 2000 grand cherokee just bought it with 122222 miles on it,it drive= s well but the engine keeps stalling at approx intervals of say 20mins and = will not start untill about 3 to 4 hours i had it scanned and i have this e= rrors P1391,P0100,P0181,P0725 pls which of these DTC will be responsible fo= r the engine to be stalling.

Stalls at low speed are usually spark or timing related. Sags at high speed are usually fuel delivery issues.

The crankshaft position sensor will kill your vehicle at low speed and is temermental, meaning once your heep shuts off it might restart again. CPS sensor faults are "sometimes" stored.

The other alternative is simply a bad battery. You can have a cell break or a bad connector causing a temporary loss of power. I literally pulled the terminal off my battery one time while disconnecting it in order to check sensors. :/

The way you know it's a battery is you either have a HUGE number of faults thrown or just the code for battery disconnected and no others. The real tell, however, is when the damn thing falls apart in your hand. :)

This will cause the other errors as your engine hunts for timing.

e: >> I have a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 4.7 liter engine. 205,000 miles. >=

he last week, engine has stalled three times, at very slow idle, >> or very= low speed. I have NO problems starting the engine. >> Today, while traveli= ng >> on the interstate at 70 mph, my engine shuts off entirely, and all >>= of my gauges >> go down to zero. It was as though some one unhooked the ba= ttery and >> the alternator at the same time. I allowed the car to slow dow= n to >> about 50 mph >> and all of a sudden, the gauges snap back into "nor= mal" positions, >> and the engine resumes >> normal running, and I drive 30=

ing problems. Based >> on advice here, I had the throttle body cleaned and = the iac cleaned >> out. That took care of those >> problems at the time. Ag= ain, no problems starting now, just slow >> idle stalling, and the very wei= rd engine and gauge shutdown at 70 >> mph (occurred once). >> >> >> Any com= mnents or advice will be appreciated. What should I be >> checking ? Stalls= at low speed are usually spark or timing related. Sags at high speed are u= sually fuel delivery issues. The crankshaft position sensor will kill your = vehicle at low speed and is temermental, meaning once your heep shuts off i= t might restart again. CPS sensor faults are "sometimes" stored. The other = alternative is simply a bad battery. You can have a cell break or a bad con= nector causing a temporary loss of power. I literally pulled the terminal o= ff my battery one time while disconnecting it in order to check sensors. :/= The way you know it's a battery is you either have a HUGE number of faults= thrown or just the code for battery disconnected and no others. The real t= ell, however, is when the damn thing falls apart in your hand. :) > i own a= 2000 grand cherokee just bought it with 122222 miles on it,it > drives wel= l but the engine keeps stalling at approx intervals of say > 20mins and wil= l not start untill about 3 to 4 hours i had it scanned > and i have this er= rors P1391,P0100,P0181,P0725 pls which of these DTC > will be responsible f= or the engine to be stalling.

DougW bro pls i tried the car again yesterday to find out if the problem has been corrected but the car went off after 45 mins and it refused to start again pls acn i have ur suggestion as to what i can do next? i will appriciate ur response

Pull the codes again.

ok i will get that across ASAP thanks

P0100,P0400,P0048 these are codes i saw when i check yesterday in the evening

First question. How old is the fuel filter? If it's clogged you can get some of these errors.

P0100 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit P0400 Diesel EGR System Failure P0048 Turbo/Super Charger Boost Control Solenoid Circuit High

I don't have the book for your vehicle but find the connection that runs to the mass air-flow circuit (usually on the intake hose just behind the filter) and clean it with some contact cleaner.

Possibly clean the sensor.

Also find the connection to the boost solinoid and clean it as well. Watch for any cuts or exposure of wires.

I did see one write up. Might be worth looking into. This deals with an air filter for the boost control that can plug up.

Uh.... The Jeep 4.7L engine is a naturally aspirated, GASOLINE engine using speed density fuel strategy. That means NO MAF sensor and NO turbo/super charger.

Maybe he should figure out what he's working on first. If he's getting diesel codes from a 4.7L engine controller, he either needs a new engine controller, a new code reader, or a new pair of glasses.

Pls can i have urnumber so i can explain better

My automechnics washed nuzzles and changed plugs and the car was fine for l= ike 2 weeks but the problem showed up again this time around both automechn= ics and autoelectrician agreed that I have to change ECU both am skeptical = it might not solve the problem can I just give it a try ?

My automechnics washed nuzzles and changed plugs and the car was fine for l= ike 2 weeks but the problem showed up again this time around both automechn= ics and autoelectrician agreed that I have to change ECU both am skeptical = it might not solve the problem can I just give it a try ?

Get a better mechanic. ECU's just don't "go bad."

First step:

- battery and battery connections

- fuel filter (fuel starvation)

- crankshaft position sensor (loss of signal)

- fuel pump (volume and pessure check)

Get the codes first.

Since there was some 'washing' going on, pay special attention to ground points. I've had some systems which reacted to weather like an old man's arthritis! The fact that it worked for a while then degraded suggests corroded gound points or bad connectors.

I got another auto electrician he said he checked and discoverd that whenev= er the car stalls current is not been supplied to the coil on the plugs and= when he has that kind of issue what he does is that he will change the ECU= of the vehicle and reprogram the car to work with the new ECU.

I got another auto electrician he said he checked and discoverd that whenev= er the car stalls current is not been supplied to the coil on the plugs and= when he has that kind of issue what he does is that he will change the ECU= of the vehicle and reprogram the car to work with the new ECU.