2001 Grand Cherokee

Most of the "special" oils for high mileage engines are aimed at non-roller lifter engines (solid lifter or old style hydraulic lifters) and contain zinc additives to lube the cam and lifter contact points ... actually, they're just old timey oils with a higher pice tag.

I don't know much on the 4.7, but if it's a roller lifter engine there's no need for the zinc additive.

As for longevity, keep it tuned, lubed, cleaned and don't abuse it and it'll last longer ... simple as that.

Budd

Thanks for that advice...

I googled Jeep GC reliability and came across what appears to be two persistent problems....front rotors and something about blend door failure that plague the limited. The front rotor problem I experienced just after the warranty expired. Not sure but I might be dealing with that issue again.

But the blend door issue, having to do with the heating system vents, was new to me.

Other than those two things, I really could not find any other major problems. Several individuals mentioned getting high mileage, in the

So your advice about keeping up with maintenance is on target.

Larry

Thanks for that advice...

I googled Jeep GC reliability and came across what appears to be two persistent problems....front rotors and something about blend door failure that plague the limited. The front rotor problem I experienced just after the warranty expired. Not sure but I might be dealing with that issue again.

But the blend door issue, having to do with the heating system vents, was new to me.

Other than those two things, I really could not find any other major problems. Several individuals mentioned getting high mileage, in the

So your advice about keeping up with maintenance is on target.

Larry

I have a bit of experience with high mileage engines as I was a forklift mechanic for 10 years (oldest truck with original engine was 45 years old at the time and was operated at least 80 hrs /week) and I've had five vehicles go over 200,000 miles: a '65 Plymouth 225 Slant Six (400K) a '79 Dodge 318 (325K) and two XJ's (88-89) with over 330K each when I got them. plus I work on small engines.

I do my own work, naturally, so I speak from hands on experience.

Glad to help.

Budd

I remember that slant six, that engine was both reliable and economical. Are they still building them?

I remember that slant six, that engine was both reliable and economical. Are they still building them?

^^^^^^^^^^^^ Ha! What do you think? They were reliable and economical. Damn near bullet-proof, too.

-- Old Crow BS#133, SENS, TOMKAT '82 FLTC 92", '87 FLTC

..

Good point! That slant six would have been great in a jeep.

I am thinking about my former 91 toyota camry with a 2.0l engine that actually got 40 mpg on the highway.

They know how to build gas saving vehicles using the old technology, but they don't. Instead they throw all that new technology at the problem making the auto more expensive, more complicated, more prone to failure, very expensive to repair and, in the case of hybrids with new battery technology, even dangerous

One reason I am reluctant to buy a new car.

Larry

Front rotors on some models sensitive to ham fisted poor torqueing of wheel nuts. Can be avoided by using a torque wrench.

The auto temp control system can be a real pain, and if it ever truly goes bad and you cannot fix it yourself, quite expensive.

Best investment is the Factory Service Manual, which you can buy online at jeep under the for owners link.

There are special high mileage oils, but 75-80 isn't that high.

Pure synth, or synth blend is pretty much a personal taste unless the owners manual calls out synth due to engine design.

Good point! That slant six would have been great in a jeep.

I am thinking about my former 91 toyota camry with a 2.0l engine that actually got 40 mpg on the highway.

They know how to build gas saving vehicles using the old technology, but they don't. Instead they throw all that new technology at the problem making the auto more expensive, more complicated, more prone to failure, very expensive to repair and, in the case of hybrids with new battery technology, even dangerous

One reason I am reluctant to buy a new car.

Larry ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Also one of the reasons I quit working at the dealerships and bought a hot rod and restoration shop way back in the hills. When I started out at the dealer I was what they called a "heavy line" guy. That meant I did engines, head gaskets, intakes, water pump, etc. 23 years later when I gave it up, I was spending most of my day chasing squeaks and rattles and trying to be an electrical engineer. Sure is more satisfying to bring a rusty old hulk back to life.

-- Old Crow BS#133, SENS, TOMKAT '82 FLTC 92", '87 FLTC

I appreciate that reference to the Factory Service Manual. I think I will be keeping the GC rather than trade and the manual sounds like a good investment! If the blend door problem shows up, I will just deal with it.

Still thinking about the move to synthetic oil.

Thanks for the advice!

Larry

..

m...

I don't know if you take the Orvis catalog (men's clothing, etc), but around Christmas every year, they come out with a totally restored Jeep Grand Wagoneer priced, I think, around $30,000. Not sure about the model year, but that would be in the 63-91 time period when the Wagoneers were built. Supposedly a complete restoration from the frame up with the engine rebuilt and tuned.

They also offer a completely restored older landy that for the first time they wanted $65,000 for. Now they put one up every year for auction in their catalog. Both in the Orvis catalog around Christmas time.

So sounds like to me restoration of older classic vehicles could be make for a good living.

Larry

I don't know if you take the Orvis catalog (men's clothing, etc), but around Christmas every year, they come out with a totally restored Jeep Grand Wagoneer priced, I think, around $30,000. Not sure about the model year, but that would be in the 63-91 time period when the Wagoneers were built. Supposedly a complete restoration from the frame up with the engine rebuilt and tuned.

They also offer a completely restored older landy that for the first time they wanted $65,000 for. Now they put one up every year for auction in their catalog. Both in the Orvis catalog around Christmas time.

So sounds like to me restoration of older classic vehicles could be make for a good living.

^^^^^^^^^^^^

If you've ever watched Barrett-Jackson's auctions on Speed Channel, you've heard the phrase,"Sold for less than the cost of restoration". They're usually talking about some car that just sold for $30 or $40k. I've got a doctor who put over $110k in a '69 Mustang convertible. There was a $100k Camaro in last week. We didn't build that one, but were just doing some mechanical stuff to it. I can do a '57 Bel-Aire for under $50k if it's not too rusty Heck, we even re-did a '29 International flatbed truck. That one cost about $30k. I'll do okay.

-- Old Crow BS#133, SENS, TOMKAT '82 FLTC 92", '87 FLTC

One of the greatest advantages of the Factory Manual is that every now and then it can help keep you from getting in over your head... and taking it to a pro with the right tools.

For typical troubleshooting, it is great, particularly if you can read the wiring diagrams as not that many mechanics are electrical literate yet.

As for the synth, you could change over at pretty much any mileage. I changed at about 120K with no folkloric leaks, etc. Then went back to blend. Don't see any difference in oil use, gas mileage, etc. but tend to change reasonably often.