91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?

The "correct" way would be to replace the assembly but you might get by okay with some high pressure fuel line hose and a few clamps as you described.

----------------- TheSnoMan.com

Thanks. I figured going all the way back to the transmission was the preferred method. Just kicking around options, remembering back to the days when I added an external trans cooler to the ol' Chevy. Instructions had you cut the hard line and hose clamp the new cooler lines on.

First off you need to find out 'why' it wore out there. Kinda foolish to replace it the same way. If it was already 'fixed' with a clamp at either end of that piece, maybe they made it too short at the bend so the barb wore through.

For repair, you can easily buy 'transmission cooler line' by the foot at the parts store. They also sell the high pressure (worm) hose clamps that have a solid band instead of the cut through threads for the worm gear. These are much better than a regular hose clamp.

'If' for whatever reason you end up cutting the steel line or maybe someone else has, you must make sure it gets an inward flair or the cut edges will wear right through the line again.

Mike

I see why it rubbed through. Way back B.C. (before Clay) girlfriend cooked a head gasket, running up Cajon pass, towing a trailer, with the A/C on and a full load of kids. Apparently, the shop that fixed it neglected to reattach the clamp that holds the hard line up front, under the radiator. Why they would have removed it is a mystery. I doubt it rattled loose on it's own but it might have. Who knows... Anyway, it was not attached. The hard line has been sagging and rubbing the hose on that rubber dust pan under the front ever since. It was touching right up next to the crimp otherwise it would never had enough friction to wear it through. I'm surprised it didn't get into the front pulley since it was flapping around within an inch of it at the other end. I screwed the clamp back in place and nothing is anywhere near touching now. I have a tubing cutter in my brake line making stuff that will cut it nicely and roll the end. I think I'll chop it right behind the crimp and hose clamp it. btw... I saw your post from way back 2000 on a similar subject. OP had a kinked line and was worried about damage to the tranny. You mentioned much the same fix then and I was ready to go for it. The rolled end on the cut tube wasn't mentioned though, and I had forgot all about my tubing cutter. I was going to go after it with a cutoff wheel... Thanks!

The plumbers style wheel cutter does the trick nicely on steel line as it rolls it just right. If there is a burr left on the inside edge of the cut, most cutters have that triangle shaped reamer blade on their back side to get the burr. Trimming the burr makes for better flow also and a lot quieter too, but that is in a quiet house where you notice that difference. ;-)

Mike

The cutter I have is a tiny round thing with 3 little wheels. Great for working in tight spaces where you can't swing a regular wheel cutter around.

aarg... don't mention plumbing. Gz has me remodeling a bathroom for her. Got this fancy sink/cabinet/freestanding thing, now I have to move the drain and water lines around a corner to hook it up.

They also make nice clean cuts usually because you can't really 'muscle' the tightener too hard like you can on the larger cutter, so burrs are less of an issue.

LOL!

Mike

If this tool doesn't say "Ridgid" on it somewhere it will be worthless.

Saludos cordiales,

Earle

Works fine, it helps to avoid leakage if you try to slide about 2" of hose over the metal line and use two clamps about 3/4" or so apart.

You might consider using a flaring tool and putting a moderate flare on ends of tubes to keep hose on better with clamps on hose over tube above but near or next to flare

----------------- TheSnoMan.com

Or, how to cut the new hose in less than 6 months....

A flair will have a sharp edge from the cutting wheel or the saw which will very fast destroy the new hose. Even a double flare at the end of the line where it's cut will 'still' wear through the hose because the hose flexes right there from vibration.

That is why the bubble in the line to hold the clamp is up the line from the end on factory tubes, never right at the end like a brake line or other screw type fitting needs.

Mike

Often it's just the "O" ring worn out. Slide an adapter that fits around the pipe into the coupler then pull them out:

The hose has got a big ol' hole in it. No leaky O ring this time. cool tool though!

On Tue, 3 Jul 2007 14:38:41 -0700, "L.W. \(Bill\) Hughes III" Amazingly Replied without Prejudice below:

:> Often it's just the "O" ring worn out. Slide an adapter that fits around :>the pipe into the coupler then pull them out: :>

:>

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On Tue, 3 Jul 2007 14:57:52 -0700, "L.W. \(Bill\) Hughes III" Amazingly Replied without Prejudice below:

:>

:>

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