96 Grand Cherokee - Stalling... Replaced CPS .... Different stalling

If it's the 4.0L like the Cherokees then unplug and re plug the cps back by the firewall. they are known for bad connections there.

Already tried that. No dice. It will start when cool. I let it run in my driveway and it ends up starting to sputter after about 15 to 20min of running, and then dies. Can't start back up. Have to wait again until cool down.

All I am getting is a error code 11.

Probably bought a brand X POS.

It only happens after it is warmed up. I wait for cool down and it starts again! Then dies after running a while. Could this be the Coil ??

rick.skowyra did pass the time by typing:

It could be, but usually a dying coil causes erratic start/warm-ups and tends to straighten out when driving.

Check and clean the ASD relay and the camshaft position sensor line that goes to the distributor.

Yes it could be.

You can go to any electronics store and get a can of compressed freezing spray. It is used to locate parts that fail from heat. You give the coil a fast spray after it dies and if it starts right back up you have likely nailed the trouble.

Don't you have two CPS's on that vehicle?

One is on the flywheel, the other is inside the distributor I think.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

" snipped-for-privacy@ryers>

I don't know of any other CPS. The one that was changed was on the bell housing of the trans.

A friend mentioned a ingition module in the distributor ? Could that be what you are referring to ?

Also

I am a newbie at best in regards to auto repair.

What type of symptoms occur if there is a bad camshaft sensor? And where is it located ?

Sorry, I was meaning the Camshaft Position Sensor as well as a Crank Position Sensor both being a CPS....

The cam sensor causes your symptoms also and is located inside the distributor.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Mike, you may have the answer. Since I am only getting a error 11 which indicates CAM or CRANK sensors. I changed the crank, but maybe it's the cam.

Do you know if it's hard to replace ?

RIck

On my '96, there's a connector that sits over the manifold (I think without going out and checking) associated with the CrankshaftPS. Maybe WD40 that connector. As to the CamshaftPS ... aka stator ... changing that usually requires removing the distributor first (dunno about jeeps).

We had to replace the crank sensor a couple days ago on my neighbors '96 Cherokee 4 liter

The crank sensor was on the driver's side of the bellhousing in about the 10 or 11 o'clock position. It is held on with two 7/16" bolts that are about

1.25" long. They may be reached fairly easily from underneath using a 1/4" socket set and a long extension. A wobble or universal is not required but may help. The wiring goes straight up and joins the wiring harness atop the intake manifold where the connector is held on by bracket with one nut. I do not recall the nut size but do recall I used a smaller metric combination wrench to remove it.

The distributor is on the lower passenger side in the middle of the block length right out in the open. I did not examine it but they are generally held on by one bolt. Before removal, if necessary, mark the position of the distributor and the location the rotor button is pointing so you can return it to the same location (if it is necessary to remove it)

Be advised there is a gear on the bottom of the distributor and the rotor will rotate on removal and insertion. Pay attention to the amount of rotation.

I can post pictures if needed.

The cam sensor also is tied into the coil.

I think I would freeze the coil before buying new parts. I also think the distributor has to come out to change that sucker.

Ok, I know I talk about the stupid body ground lots because I live in the rust belt and see tons of rotted ones all the time so here goes.

If the wire mesh strap from the rear of the engine head to the firewall is dirty or ratty, it can cause strange stalls by forcing the electronics to steal a ground connection. It sure can't hurt to verify it's connections are good and the mesh isn't rotted.

Our Cherokee acted 'exactly' like it had a dead CPS. It then up and died within 10 feet of me replacing it. My trouble was a rotted ground strap.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

" snipped-for-privacy@ryers>

Well, still no resolution to the problem. I replaced the fuel pump, crank sensor, cam sensor, and even the ECM! It still starts when cold, but then after running for about 20min starts to sputter, and dies. Then, you can't get it started again until it cools down. I was told to possibly check the MAP sensor ??

What about a blocked gas tank vent? That will sure give your symptoms.

I don't know where it is on your vehicle, but if the air filter on the bottom of my charcoal canister gets plugged with mud it puts a vacuum on the gas tank and does a nasty immitation of running out of gas. Let it sit for 10 minutes or so and away it goes again.

The fast test for this is to open the gas cap when it dies and see if it starts right back up.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

" snipped-for-privacy@ryers>

Coil. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto: snipped-for-privacy@aol.com

" snipped-for-privacy@ryersontull.com" wrote:>

If it is, he can get some freeze spray from any electronics shop. When it dies, give the coil a freeze spray shot and if it fires right back up it is figured.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

"L.W.(ßill) Hughes III" wrote:

I actually tried the coil thing. Instead of freeze spray, we took it out, put it in a bucket of ice water for a while. Put it back in and still no start up.