and now: Death Wobble 1989 XJ Style

In reply to both of you:

My shocks have less than 10,000 miles on them, my rims are OEM Jeep aluminum, the tires are from Peerless tire and run true and are well balanced.

OTOH, I might have a bit of wear in the wheel bearings and balljoints but I can't detect any slop.

I know the disk brakes pulse a bit due to the fact the XJ sat for three years outside before the previous owner decided to get rid of it and there is brake pad shaped rust patterns on the rotors that I need to get removed.

It's that pulsing that brought the wobble to my attention. Around town the pulsing is just a mild annoyance and that's where I drive 90+% of the time.

I'm also looking at doing a tierod end replacement in the spring just to be safe.

Reply to
Budd Cochran
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That makes sense - but it also implies that a part of the problem is not speed related. The real death wobble is almost always related to speed and once it starts it rapidly increases in severity. In most case, engaging the brakes dampens or even stops it.

I appreciate that brake pulse thing - I had a scored rotor that nearly drove me nuts when I first got the MJ. Only cure was to replace the rotors - the old ones were worn past the legal turning thickness. Put the new rotors on and all the pulse crap went away. I think I got a bargain at that. The local AutoZone had new rotors for about $20 each and I was expecting three times that much.

Reply to
Will Honea

My JK had the wobble at 20K and the dealer replaced the steering stabilizer. It now has 70K on it with no further problem though I will be replacing it shortly just because..

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Reply to
D-R

steering

Yep dw is from all sorts of places. My worst bushings were the lowers.

Reply to
DougW

I do have a very slight, and I do mean very slight, wobble without braking input when the linkages and suspension parts are neutrally loaded (iow, no steering forces, just tracking straight.

My older brother's 91 did the same just before fully DW set in about 2000 miles later.

He didn't notice it but I did in the passenger's seat.

I figure I've got many issues with this Jeep, I just need to win the Powerball lottery so I can afford to fix it!

Reply to
Budd Cochran

At least it's new enough that you can remove the radiator cap and drive a new Jeep under it - I'm cursed with the old closed cooling system. What a PITA that can be!

Reply to
Will Honea

Now that's an easy fix.

Moroso makes radiator fillers that fit into the top hose and the heater valve can be modified (both the feed to the heater core and return need modifying) and the old pressure tank made into a coolant recovery that's not pressurized.

In fact, I cut the pressure valve out of a stock cap then made sure it vented.

Another way is to get a radiator from a later model that has the filler cap and grab the coolant recovery tank too.

I did the first type of modification to my son's 88 XJ when I had it because I'd heard the closed system was problematic.

In 100+F heat it ran normal temperatures with just the mechanical fan, no electric fan and no AC core in front of the radiator (someone had already cut the hoses so it wasn't working anyhow).

And I used a 1980 Dodge truck heater valve because the OEM vacuum operated valve was damaged. The only problem there was I had to use a light duty throttle cable to open it and you had to open the hood to shut the heat off.

Reply to
Budd Cochran

Now that's an easy fix.

Moroso makes radiator fillers that fit into the top hose and the heater valve can be modified (both the feed to the heater core and return need modifying) and the old pressure tank made into a coolant recovery that's not pressurized.

In fact, I cut the pressure valve out of a stock cap then made sure it vented.

Another way is to get a radiator from a later model that has the filler cap and grab the coolant recovery tank too.

I did the first type of modification to my son's 88 XJ when I had it because I'd heard the closed system was problematic.

In 100+F heat it ran normal temperatures with just the mechanical fan, no electric fan and no AC core in front of the radiator (someone had already cut the hoses so it wasn't working anyhow).

And I used a 1980 Dodge truck heater valve because the OEM vacuum operated valve was damaged. The only problem there was I had to use a light duty throttle cable to open it and you had to open the hood to shut the heat off.

Reply to
Budd Cochran

A new radiator isn't that expensive. It's more a case of just finding the energy to do the work anymore.

I expect I'll be fighting some wobble problems come this summer as the tires on the MJ are getting on toward bald and it usually takes a couple of passes to get everything smooth.

I'm hoping the old beast lasts as long as I plan to - it's still more comfortable on a trip than anything else around here. I rebuilt the a/c last summer and plan on taking it to South Texas come Spring and warm weather.

Doug's comments on the coupling joint reminded me that I had to replace that one as well. It took me all one summer to get the front end just right when I first got this MJ. It was obvious that the original owner rode it hard and put it away wet, but once I got that and the fuel system straight it's been rock solid for over 10 years now - just a little TLC.

Reply to
Will Honea

We have 3 or 4 running around here in Canon City and, to be honest, if I can find the money, I'm getting one.

The radiator swap is the easiest way to do the modification then just have the pressure bottle connections to the heater valve and hose blocked off and toss the bottle.

It does require stripping the grill parts and the radiator yoke but I did that on my 88 to pull the engine for the rear main seal and clutch slave cylinder replacements and it wasn't too bad.

Let's get together by next year and I'll help you with it.

Reply to
Budd Cochran

Anymore, making plans beyond a few months out is really optimistic ;-)

I don't get down your way very often anymore but if you're in this area give me a holler. I'm in the book. As I said, the wife teaches on Ft. Carson and Monument is a 20 minute run in the other direction so I'm usually somewhere in between. We can swap lies over a cup of something.

Reply to
Will Honea

I lived in Monument for about a year ... way back in 1954!

My step-dad worked as civilian labor as a janitor in the Ft. Carson hospital.

I went to First Grade at Palmer Lake back then.

It's sure grown up a lot since it had a population of just 400.

My email address works and if I can give you a call before I'm up that way, unless you're in the phonebook, that is.

Reply to
Budd Cochran

I'm in the book. Unlisting cost $$$!

Reply to
Will Honea

By our worst estimation we'll save about $60/mo.

I just might give you a call later this week, what's the best time of day?

Reply to
Budd Cochran

I'm holding on to a grandfathered Qwest bundle for phone/DSL - but we still tote cell phones. The bundle saves me almost the cost of the phone part with a heck of a bargain on 20Mbit DSL.

I'm usually up by 0900, moving by 1000, and awake by noon ;-) If I'm going out I usually leave by 1300 but email me at snipped-for-privacy@whonea.net and I can make about any time that works for you.

Reply to
Will Honea

We looked into a package deal with the local cable provider a couple years back; basic cable, DSL, and phone, but the phone had limited calling areas for long distance and we haven't watched regular TV in years.

PureTalk USA has a cell plan with rollover minutes, 130 min./ mo., no roaming for $10 / mo. and a free phone (its not fancy, just a phone), so for

2 phones it's $20 a month.

Let's see ... Hit the rack between 2330 and 0130, up @ 0600 to 0730 and bust butt in between.

I'll drop you and email with my double L and cell numbers in it.

Reply to
Budd Cochran

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