"DougW" wrote in message news:lbpmn1$n1c$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me... : Budd Cochran wrote: : > "DougW" wrote... : >> Budd Cochran wrote: : >>> Previously I replaced my 9 front suspension and track bar bushings : >>> which seem to aggravate my wobble so I then replaced all my tie rod : >>> ends except the track bar. Then I set my toe-in to zero. : >>> : >>> On a 75 mile round trip from Canon City CO to Pueblo CO at 65 mph, I : >>> had absolutely no shimmy, wobble, boo-ga-loo or Peppermint Twist in : >>> my front axle. : >>> : >>> Smooth as a greased slide. : >>> : >>> Darn thing might just be worth keeping. : >> : >> Great hobby ain't it. :) : > : > I dunno, Doug ... been thinking about going down to the Credit Union : > and seeing about a loan for a good used Neon or Stratus and keep the : > XJ for hauling the fishing boat. : : Not a bad choice. I just don't care for trading problems I know how to fix for problems I don't. :)
I agree but the last time I could afford a new car was '72 (Dodge Charger) and if I've got both Haynes and Chilton manuals for it I can usually figger it out ... now where did I put that big hammer . . . . . . : : >> Glad to hear that solved the problem. : >> A teeny bit of toe-in (1/16" front-to-back) is about : >> what you need. I forget exactly what that is in terms : >> of just turning the tie-rod, but it wasn't much. I had : >> to mess with it when replacing ball joints and even after : >> measuring many times got it horribly, horribly wrong. :/ : > : > If you have the T-case with the Full Time position as well as the : > Part Time, then every source I could find online and at my local : > dealership said 0 degrees toe. : : I'll look, but that's what the service book said for the 89XJ. : Still though, at that toe-in it's just tracking vs any outside wear : on the tires.
I'm going to have to replace the chunked out tires anyway but for now I'll swap them to the rear. : : >>> Now I need to replace front rotors, pads, grease and re-boot the CV : >>> joints on the axle shaft (wish I could swap for the standard U-joint : >>> type shafts ... less / easier maintenance) and replace the "S" : >>> curved rear springs (thanks to a 3/8" thick add-a-leaf booster : >>> leaf) and get the rear dropped back to stock height. : >> : >> CV boots are fun. Especially if you don't have to repack the joint. : >> I gave up trying to separate the drivers side one and simply pushed : >> grease through it with a cattle syringe/turkey baster. What a mess. : > : > Now you know why I want the good old-fashioned U-joints. Less mess : > and less trouble to repair. : : Yep. After doing a few of these I have to agree. The U-joint is so much easier to deal with (providing you lube it that is).
Yep, gotta lube them but what I hate is the Zerk for the lower balljoint is blocked by the u-joint / cv joint and I have to pull the shafts to swap a 90 degree Zerk in. Very poor design. : : >>> Maybe fixing the rear springs will stop us from being tossed around : >>> every time we run over a shadow from a light pole. : >> : >> Yep. I've got coils all the way around, but probably a bushing going : >> on the rear track arm. : > : > My better half is disabled (O2 24/7) and if I had the dinero I'd : > install full air suspension so I could drop the Jeep a few inches for : > ease of entrance and exit for her ... and she's the reason for : > looking for a regular car with doors big enough for her to get in and : > out of. : : I've seen bags on a ZJ. Got to admit the ride was very smooth but it gave : up any travel off-road for that ride.
My off-roading is limited to crossing a weed covered area to get to where the fish are rising. I've also thought of going with stock springs and air shocks to handle any extra loads. : : >> On the other hand. I did get a free battery this weekend. : >> The old battery would go to 9v when sitting for a while and : >> the inner two cells looked grey and a bit low (suspected : >> they were boiling or shorted) : >> : >> Took it to PepBoys and they tested the battery. : >> : >> Them: Looks like a low charge, tester says you probably have some : >> ignition off draw. : >> Me: (yea, right, nope) Hey, how about charging it for me first? : >> Them: Ok. (throws it on the charger as I step back) : >> : >> (couple of minutes as the machine sets up and starts to charge) : >> : >> Me: Hey, do you hear something that sounds like a fan or boiling : >> water? Them: HOLY SH__T! (turns off charger) Yep, looks like you : >> need a new one. : : > Grey down in the cell? That's the dry top of the plates. Check your : > water more often and use distilled but in emergencies you can use : > water you can drink as long as there is no added minerals as found in : > some bottled waters. : : Yep. I check it every couple of months. The electrical had been giving : me fits since this winter when I first suspected a battery problem. : Filled it back up with distilled water twice. That ain't normal. : I think there was an internal break in the battery. Not the first time : I've seen a plate or someting break due to vibration. : : -- : DougW
Plate collapse from age and vibration. To save money in the long run go to a wrapped and/or gel cell like an Optima.
But even gel cell (deep cycle, mobility scooter type) require checking when they age a bit.
My wife has a Rally mobility scooter we got for free because it wouldn't hold a charge and the two batteries are $75 /ea. at a discount source.
Popped the caps and began topping with distilled water before a charge cycle and now instead of ten minutes of operation we get 8 hours ... yep, back to normal.