angle wedge on Rubicon lift

My RE 4.5" YJ kit came with two sets of 2.5 degree wedges. What Rubicon sent to pass for instructions didn't mention either set, but it was fairly clear that the longer shackles would require a caster correction up front, and the amount of lift would require rear pinion shims and a transfer case drop. (I have an Atlas II so the SYE kit requirement was not applicable.) Since I had previously replaced the stock YJ axles with a Dynatrac D44/D60 combination, we cut the rear spring perches loose and dialed in the pinion without the xfer case drop or shims. Up front we measured the caster and found it to be at 4 degrees, so we added 2 degree steel shims rather than cut the perches loose & re-welding. To get rid of any front driveshaft issues we instaled a Hi Angle Driveline CV shaft. The degree shims fixed the caster, the CV driveshaft fixed the vibration and added a lot of beef. FWIW, I long ago tossed the track bars front & rear, and the sway bar, so we never installed any of the associated Rubicon brackets, links, etc.

To line up the drag link, turn the steering wheel.

Mike

"Robb S via CarKB.com" wrote:

after speaking with rubicon about being sent only 1 set of 4 degree shims, they tell me they are for the rear and not the front. They did away with the front because everyone just goes and get a cv driveshaft. What to do until then, who knows...LOL anyway, their suggestion is to do away with the drag link all together...

actually, that doesn't do anything. It's connected to the axle and the frame. Only there to support the axle and keep things lined up. Rubicon advised me that most people do away with the drag link, I mentioned that it's probably because their bracket doesn't work. Anyway off it comes. I'm told that the cj's never had them but didn't ask about the tj's. I'm a learnin...

You're talking about the track bar. The drag link connects the pitman arm to the passenger side knuckle and your tie rod. If you remove the drag link you will have no steering.

Steve

Robb S via CarKB.com wrote:

The longer front shackle will tip your front pinion up, which will reduce your caster. If you find that steering is touchy and the Jeep wanders all over the road, you may need shims to bring the pinion back down.

RE should have said you can do away with the track bar, not the drag link.

Steve

Robb S via CarKB.com wrote:

I've been schooled again!!!... your probably right, need to consult my steering component diagram. I'm still curious why RE eliminated the front shims's from their kit. Probably because they were crappy aluminum. That's the only thing I found to be poor quality in their kit. Also, their sway bar disconnects leave a little to be desired, but we'll see. They will probably rust within a month. I've ready so many good things about their springs though, Probably better to have just bought their spring and shackle kit. Do away with all the other stuff that doesn't fit. I'll see if they'll refund because they don't fit. I'll let anyone know how it goes... Robb

RE is advising me that the 4 degree wedges they supplied go to the rear and not the front. No wedges for the front. They have really crapped things up with their instructions. The shackles are only 1" longer in the front. Not much to worry there with all the other inches of travel in the lift.

track bar, not drag link. My bad

Let's do us ALL a favor and end this thread.... all is well so far, thanks for all the help ROBB

You are not making sense....

No drag link, no steering.

No shims up front with longer shackles means you cannot drive faster than 30 mph and still be able to steer.

Mike

"Robb S via CarKB.com" wrote:

You are going to get introduced really fast to the 'Death Wobble'.

Mike

"Robb S via CarKB.com" wrote:

If we do you are going to be in big trouble.....

Mike

"Robb S via CarKB.com" wrote:

I recently installed the RE 4 inch standard lift kit..it comes with a 4 degree shim as well....i have puchased more shim..its now shimmed to 8 degrees and still have a vibration at 70 kph.....