My AT fluid is a dirty brown/black rather than the usual red. I can only assume this is bad, mmmmkay.
What is this generally an indication of? :(
Jas.
My AT fluid is a dirty brown/black rather than the usual red. I can only assume this is bad, mmmmkay.
What is this generally an indication of? :(
Jas.
Nothing good. Could be burned clutches or bands or the transmission got overheated. Has the transmission been working OK or has it been acting strangely? Do you do a lot of towing or rock crawling? You might have a partly blocked or undersized transmission cooler.
If it was mine I'd change the fluid and filter right away and keep an eye on it.
Jeff DeWitt
WJ manual excerpt:
"...automatic transmission fluid when new is red in color. The ATF is dyed red so it can be identified from other fluids used in the vehicle such as engine oil or antifreeze. The red color is not permanent and is not an indicator of fluid condition. As the vehicle is driven, the ATF will begin to look darker in color and may eventually become brown. This is normal. A dark brown/black fluid accompanied with a burnt odor and/or deterioration in shift quality may indicate fluid deterioration or transmission component failure."
Does it smell 'burnt'?
What do I know, the last car I had with an automatic was a Studebaker Hawk
Jeff DeWitt
billy ray wrote:
What does 'burnt' ATF smell like? :)
Not really.. it just smells like.. well... transmission fluid *shrug*
Guys.. thanks for your assistance on this one. Will dump and change on the weekend, and let you know how it goes!
If one hasn't already been created, I was thinking of creating a rec.autos.makers.jeep+willys Wiki, based on content sourced from within this very newsgroup. Thoughts?
>If "it just smells like.. well... transmission fluid *shrug*" then hopefully it isn't burnt and a fluid/filter change is all you will need.
Make sure you get the correct type of fluid. DC has changed many fluid specs in recent years.
Excerpt from WG Diesel manual: DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CAUSES OF
BURNT FLUID
Burnt, discolored fluid is a result of overheating
which has three primary causes.
(1) Internal clutch slippage, usually caused by low
line pressure, inadequate clutch apply pressure, or
clutch seal failure.
(2) A result of restricted fluid flow through the
main and/or auxiliary cooler. This condition is usually
the result of a faulty or improperly installed
drainback valve, a damaged main cooler, or severe
restrictions in the coolers and lines caused by debris
or kinked lines.
(3) Heavy duty operation with a vehicle not properly
equipped for this type of operation. Trailer towing
or similar high load operation will overheat the
transmission fluid if the vehicle is improperly
equipped. Such vehicles should have an auxiliary
transmission fluid cooler, a heavy duty cooling system,
and the engine/axle ratio combination needed to
handle heavy loads.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - FLUID
CONTAMINATION
Transmission fluid contamination is generally a
result of:
² adding incorrect fluid ² failure to clean dipstick and fill tube whenchecking level
² engine coolant entering the fluid ² internal failure that generates debris ² overheat that generates sludge (fluid breakdown) ² failure to reverse flush cooler and lines afterrepair
² failure to replace contaminated converter afterrepair
The use of non-recommended fluids can result in
transmission failure. The usual results are erratic
shifts, slippage, abnormal wear and eventual failure
due to fluid breakdown and sludge formation. Avoid
this condition by using recommended fluids only.
The dipstick cap and fill tube should be wiped
clean before checking fluid level. Dirt, grease and
other foreign material on the cap and tube could fall
into the tube if not removed beforehand. Take the
time to wipe the cap and tube clean before withdrawing
the dipstick.
Engine coolant in the transmission fluid is generally
caused by a cooler malfunction. The only remedy
is to replace the radiator as the cooler in the radiator
is not a serviceable part. If coolant has circulated
through the transmission, an overhaul is necessary.
The transmission cooler and lines should be
reverse flushed whenever a malfunction generates
sludge and/or debris. The torque converter should
also be replaced at the same time.
Failure to flush the cooler and lines will result in
recontamination. Flushing applies to auxiliary coolers
as well. The torque converter should also be
replaced whenever a failure generates sludge and
debris. This is necessary because normal converter
flushing procedures will not remove all contaminants.
.
I would love to see that. Tomes
Well.. done :)
While I'm yet to skin it or 'make it pretty' (please excuse the flowers - they're part of the default install), Wiki is up and running. At this stage, feel free to
- Create content
- Create user accounts
I'm going to start off with what I've learnt about ATF.... hopefully with time this will be come a valuable resource within the Jeeping community :)
Jas.
Oh and I almost forgot the link
Working on organising a proper domain name in the very near future.. once I have a bit more certainty involving my transmission issues :)
J.
Got a link?
Brown is pretty normal. If it is bad it will smell like burnt toast.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.