Back after 2 yrs. Radiator question

A shroud would make a big difference. Afaik brass and copper are better conductors than aluminum. The chief benefit of aluminum is that it is cheap.

Earle

There is nothing stopping you from getting a short snout emissions clutch fan that would fit say the V8 engine or you could even go retro with a fixed 4 blade like I run in my 86.

Mike

Jeepers wrote:

Thanks. Food for thought.

From online radiator guy,

"I hate to do this and lose a sale, but your best bet would be to seek out some sort of Baja racing cooling system. We don't carry anything that would stand up to the extreme conditions you'll be driving in.

I'd be more than happy to provide you with an OEM 2-core radiator (you can't go with a 3-core due to the fan clutch) and all associated components.

If I can be of any additional assistance, please let me know.

Mike Gowen Account Manager

"short snout emissions clutch fan" O.K. you got me there, a wha...?

Ditch the engine driven fan and go with electric. You will save needed low end horsepower, all that room, and remove the danger that a hard bump will flex the fan into the radiator when off-roading.

Aluminum radiators are lighter and transfer heat better. First quality ones are also very expensive.

Then you add in the electrolytic action when steel and aluminum meet either in direct metal to metal contact or via the coolant and the choice starts getting a lot more complex.

How will you mount it so there is absolutely mo metal to metal contact? Are you willing to replace coolant annually or sooner?

There is a reason race cars use them... well... 2 reasons... saved weight on the nose and cooling capacity. Durability doesn't matter as long as the cores will last a 500 mile drive one afternoon.

I considered this. However with all the mods I've lumped together at one build (rear locking hubs, disc brakes, custom tranny crossmember, clocked and terra low'd transfer case, NV4500, MPFI, lockers, etc.) the fan can wait and I'm going conventional for now. When I actually get the beast on the dirt and work out the kinks, I'll look more carefully at it.

Brass is looking better.

Besides, my plate is full w/o rerouting belts, right now. Perhaps the MPFI will make up for it.

I have 2 different fans here, but they make a pile more. The fans have different lengths on their shafts.

The 7 blade 'emissions' fan I have comes with a clutch. It's shaft measures 1.5" and from the front of the clutch to the waterpump it measures 3 1/4" in total.

I 'use' an 'old fashioned' 4 blade fan with no clutch off a 70's engine. It's total depth is 1 1/4" from the front of it to the water pump. That leaves tons of room for an extra core.

However now that you mention it so I just went and measured it, I would 'not' be able to use the clutch fan if I went 3 core. It would hit.

Mike

Jeepers wrote:

I will second that. I have done a pile of rad repairs on the trail over the years including fixing a 4" hole dead center where a tree when through. That holy rad was still in that vehicle years later when it got sold.

My current rad has been trail fixed a few times too.

Mike

Mesquite thorns. Brass.

I think the group is helping!

Thanks, great point. No pun.

Yeah, and I have an extention on my pulley to clear for an MPFI component (IIRC).

O.K. brass it is. Today I'll visit my local radiator shop!

Thanks gang! I knew it would be worth the dial-up! (Come on Hughesnet!)

Just FYI, I carry a torch, tank, solder (50/50 or 60/40) and 'acid' flux or plumbers flux in my CJ7 'kit'. Electronic solder or flux will not work on the heavy brass. You need the strong stuff. I wouldn't want to use the 'silver' or lead free solder either, it is too brittle in my opinion.

Mike

Jeepers wrote:

good advice. I'll keep it in my onboard welder box with the leads and rods and air tools and hose and welding hood and hub nut socket etc.