Quit my job, been w/o DSL, using dialup. Time for new radiator on Mopar Injected 85 CJ-7 Original needs to go. Any suggestions? BeCool or OEM (looks vs bulletproof) fancy braided hose vs OEM (looks vs bulletproof)
Fabbing up custom decklid/rollbar now, body to paint soon. The body parts are sanded and ding free. Gotta set up the custom fuel door
formatting link
tailight cut-outs cut out of tub.All rust killed. The Jeep Deere is running.
Avoid the OEM, or at least the ones sold through various on-line Jeep dealers. I've had to repair several leaks where the manufacturer decided to be skimpy with the solder. And recently I have given into pouring stop-leak into the radiator to seal a hair-line crack.
They were the best, but are no longer being made. They merged with some other company, now called Ready-Rad. I put a thicker one on my '77 Cherokee Chief last summer after my old Modine finally died. Seems like a good radiator, and appears well-made, but the tanks don't have the deep, heavy fluting of the Modine (my only concern). But it is very efficient, and fits perfectly.
Hey Bill! The web address ain't working. My page and data got dropped by an ISP aquisition. No big deal, today I contacted them and I'll get to re-upload it, with new PiX!
I just don't know much about radiators, well, I do know about the number of cores and such. I just don't know if I should go with an aluminum one or if there is a better stronger OEM style unit out there. I also don't know how many cores I'll need in South Texas and Mexico heat.
Yes, but does the cool look work? If not, I want the functional one. While I find the gas cap "cool", function follows form. Flush mounted with a pseudo key for opening it. It's going on the passenger side behind the fender flare.
I get mine through a small professional radiator shop in a nearby community. If you want or need something special they will happily make it for you if a first quality unit is not commercially available.. Valley Radiator
305 Dunn Street Lockland OH
45215
513-821-6004
See:
formatting link
What else do I know ?
Preformed radiator hoses last much longer than the "we-can-use-this-anywhere' hose
Name brand hoses hold up better than ones made in Red China.
Real braided hoses are incredibly strong and last almost forever but most people just buy the braided coverings for their 'one-size-fits-all' hoses as the real braided stainless is custom made and very expensive.
It sounds to me like you want to go first class with your Jeep..
I considered this. I just don't know what it is that makes a really good radiator. One core, two, three, brass, aluminum,
Hell, I considered, putting the original back on, because I had confidence in it, but it is FUGLY. I guess I'll go look at it a bit more closely, figure out what it is I really have...
understood
Yes I guess so. however I'm a tool guy and I view many things as tools and a Jeep is one. I want it to work well and if that means the radiator is made of wood -and it works very well- thats what I need.
I currently have a two core in my 258 and it is over taxed. It will run really hot on hot days because I have the airflow compromised by a winch and two Hella Black Magic lights up front.
It runs hot enough to 'fail' a fail-safe thermostat open. It doesn't blow over though....
I have a fixed 4 blade fan on her but it didn't come with a shroud.
When I break it in half the next time, I am going to replace rather than fix it. I have snapped the side bars on both sides in the same spot. A gent from the construction across the street stopped by the other day and noticed the 1"x1/8" strapping I have welded on the sides and commented that his keeps snapping in the same spots too. We both have 'free standing' rads with one piece 'glass flip fronts.
I will need a custom made one with the heavier side straps and I believe a 3 core.
I have had some discussions on here about rads before and all the ones I have personally seen are the same size metal reservoirs or tanks on the top and bottom. When they go one core, they only use 1/3 of the available tank area. When they go 2 core, they use 2/3 of the tank area and the 3 core uses all the tank area.
Others here in the group are under the impression that a 2 core just has
2 larger cores that take up the whole tank area. I have never seen this. All the 2 core rads I have seen have room for one more core.
There is an aluminum single core rad out there with large cores, made for a Vette I believe.
I really don't think the difference in cooling or heat conduction between aluminum and brass is that much different to have to put up with the serious corrosion issues when aluminum touches steel. Everything has to be isolated. Even just a bolt will burn right through the aluminum.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >
If there is a radiator shop in which you have confidence take the Jeep to them, let them inspect it, and decide what you need.
It is, afterall, what they do for a living and a small shops only survive nowadays by being better 'values' than radiators-r-us. Value is the key word... it includes more than just price.
Options: Shrouds Two or Three row radiators Electric fans or dual fans (I've seen dual puller fans and one pusher fan) Separate coolers for power steering or transmissions
I'll havta settle for taking them the radiator, the Jeep is a bodyless chassis right now. It runs, just without going anywhere. The radiator is held up by a couple of straps and the hoses.
Makes sense.
I think this is pretty important. I still have the original.
I may go with a pusher sometime in the future. Right now I just want to get it all back together
I have a stock Jeep 2 core rad. The one with room for a 3rd core on the tanks. I believe the V8 came with the 3 core version of my rad so I think the added core will hopefully give me 1/4 to 1/3 more cooling area.
My CJ7 is right at the border for trouble. I can still lower the temp by turning on the heater which is a second rad for cooling if needed, but is is an SOB to have to have the heat on when it is hot out....
MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.