Bleeding on my 86 cj w/ front disc & rear drums.
The rear were no problem the fronts are just producing foam!
The manual says I need a special tool to bypass the valve on the end of the proportioning valve.
Yeah right like I have that tool.
Help! Is there a quick replacement, am I doing this all wrong.
If you look at the prop' valve, you should see a pin under a rubber cap. You can remove the cap and put a penny over the pin and hold it in place with a C-clamp or hose clamp or I use needle nose vise grips to hold it.
'Some' of them have a pin that is already way out and hs a notch on it. The other tool fits in the notch so the pin doesn't go back in when the pedal is pushed, but most I have seen have the pin that pops out with the pedal.
That said, mine was still one miserable SOB to do. I ended up on it's first trip the first day after a total rebuild in the bush with a pedal feel I didn't like still so I opened up all 4 bleeders and gravity bled the sucker for about a half hour and 1 liter of fluid. That worked.....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >Oh, did you bench bleed the master first? If not, the foam will stay forever....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >alright then I figured out the valve BUT while we get reasonable pedal pressure with the engine off we start it and while the fronts grab real well the pedal is still pure mush?
Any thoughts
Bleed some more. I would/did start all over at the rear. Sometimes you have to do 3 or more go arounds. The air was still in the prop' valve and now that the fronts are pushing fluid, some is still likely in the rear circuit.
You also need to manually adjust the rear brake shoes 'first' to get a proper pedal and especially a proper bleed. This is evident if you pump the pedal really fast with the engine on and the pedal comes up in height from the first hit.
If it takes two or more pumps to fill up the rear lines so the pedal raises, the air won't get pumped out of the prop valve or the rear lines.
You use the star wheel to adjust the shoes so the rear wheel grabs, then you back it off a couple clicks by using a small screwdriver to hold the auto adjuster clip up.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >Now this!
Now I come to find that the prop valve has small rubber knob on the side of it and we have a leak...does that mean it is shot?
Yes
Well......
You just put all the fittings into the valve. One is likely loose, hence the leak and likely the air in the lines.
How did you do that and not know there was a rubber cap on the valve pin?
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >No no the leak is not from one of the lines BUT that tiny flat rubber that is on the side NOT the valve pin area.
PepBoys sells something that'll work. It's like a very small C-clamp with read handle and a butterfly nut. It doesn't fit exactly, though. I think it's supposed to be for bleeding anti-lock brakes, but a few minutes with a file (or a few seconds with a die grinder :) will shape it out to work with the valve.
That is another new type of valve. 4 types I know of now in CJ's.....
I do not know what that 'side' rubber is covering. I would recommend you pull the rubber off and see if whatever is under it can be tightened. If not, the valve is garbage.
Brake fluid leaks are very sneaky because it is clear and pressurized. They sometimes drip from places that don't really leak....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.