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Brand new '89 YJ

One old trick is to do as Mike suggests and pop a spark plug into the wire and lay it on the block so you can see the spark. Instead of using a normal plug wire, plug into the coil wire. If it doesn't spark on cranking, you got no spark, period. You say you have power to the hot side of the coil. OK, put your meter on the other side of the coil - the one that goes to the ignition module, not the high tension output . Now have someone crank it over. If the voltage on the control (what used to be the points) side is zero - or any constant voltage - while it cranks, it has to be the ignition module or the power to that module. Mike explains how to find a shorted coil. This is the test we used to pull to find shorted condensors back in the good old days. If the hot side of the coil shows good voltage, the other power terminal shows a pulsing voltage you almost certainly have a bad coil.

Reply to
Will Honea
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Reply to
The Merg

Mike: Is the ignition module for his `89 still a Ford unit? We've had folks here before with no-starts caused by corrosion problems inside the connector boots for the 1970s ignition modules before. Cleaning or splicing solved the problem.

If it is the same or similar Ford ignition system he should see about +8 volts at the + terminal of the coil with the keyswitch in the "run" position, a pulsing +12 volts in the "start" position (with the engine cranking.) If he doesn't have the reduced voltage he's got a wiring issue, if he doesn't have the pulsing he's got a module or sensor issue.

Merg: Are you still checking this with a timing light? The single flash you saw when you released the key was probably just the field in the coil collapsing and not an indication that anything else was working.

-- "We began to realize, as we plowed on with the destruction of New Jersey, that the extent of our American lunatic fringe had been underestimated." Orson Wells on the reaction to the _War Of The Worlds_ broadcast.

Reply to
Lee Ayrton

Do you have any gas coming out the carb yet?

It will not go without it or spark.

If you have to go for a new ignition module, stay far away from the 'Wells' unit. I have seen and heard of far too many dead out of the box. Any other stock one will be fine.

The carb kit should be in the twenty buck range and are easy to get usually.

Mike

The Merg wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

Before you pony up $60 for a new ignition module, meter that coil like Mike said. It could also be the sensor in the distributor.

This jeep came to you with no history, right? Humor me, pull the distributor cap and make sure the rotor is actually turning and that the rotor actually fits the cap.

-- "We began to realize, as we plowed on with the destruction of New Jersey, that the extent of our American lunatic fringe had been underestimated." Orson Wells on the reaction to the _War Of The Worlds_ broadcast.

Reply to
Lee Ayrton

The rotor turns, I made sure to check that. I'm pretty sure the rotor fits the cap - I think my dad actually bought a new one just to make sure. I'll go back and check everything again before I go buy the module. Today I saw a sign at Auto Zone saying they do free testing on ignition modules, among other things - I'm thinking I might as well pull it out and take it down to them? Would it be worth the effort?

I didn't get to it t>

Reply to
The Merg

Rust from the muffler back? That's a Jeep.

-- "We began to realize, as we plowed on with the destruction of New Jersey, that the extent of our American lunatic fringe had been underestimated." Orson Wells on the reaction to the _War Of The Worlds_ broadcast.

Reply to
Lee Ayrton

Success! We traced the problem down to the pickup coil, thanks to Mike's help. We figured this out after pulling the ignition module and having it tested. We had a problem with fuel flow, but that was fixed after blowing the lines out - there was apparently some crud in the line from the pump to the filter. We also replaced the non-solid fuel hoses. Then, a liberal amount of starting fluid and gas in the carb got everything going fine. Tomorrow we replace the clutch, then she'll be back on the road. Thanks for all the help, Lee, and everyone, and especially Mike.

Reply to
The Merg

Cool, success is always nice. Thanks for the update.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail > Success! We traced the problem down to the pickup coil, thanks to
Reply to
Mike Romain

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