Carter BBD - End of story for now

Following several suggestions, I got the Jeep running better than it has in years. Computer not working, but I cleaned the idle tubes, aedjusted the mixture, and enjoyed my ride again. After 110 miles, it started running rotten again.

My best guess is that the computer kicked in for a few seconds, and adjusted the mixture to full lean.

I decided I need to get the computer running. I installed 2 fuses in the circuit board next to the battery, and checked the O2 sensor, water jacker thermocouple, and the other thingy in the air filter. Within a few minutes, I had the computer working, and adjusting the mixture.

Life is good.

Until.......

It stopped working again, and I let the smoke out of the wires inside the harness.

Jeep won't run.

2 Options:

Find a new harness (I haven't seen one for a YJ)

Replace ignition and carb with wired kits.

Reply to
Steve Foley
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Reply to
L.W.(ßill) Hughes III

Steve Foley did pass the time by typing:

Painless might have one.

Well, you probably know now that fuses have ratings and putting in a larger fuse means something else will burn out. :(

Since things are dead you might try the "nutter bypass".

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The other option is a fuel injector conversion. $$$ but what I've read indicates happy campers.

../me wonders if they make a TBI system which would be easier to install. :/

Reply to
DougW

I was told they were 1 amp fuses. I replaced them with 1 amp fuses.

From the other thread, ten years ago, choke wire melted to exhaust manifold, and caused 22 wires to become 1 (including engaging the starter while I was doing 70). My best guess is that the computer's been dead for ten years.

I'll try the nutter bypass and unplug the carb.

Anyone know how I can move the electric mixture pins? 12 volts to ???

Reply to
Steve Foley

Looks like the lawyers got ahold of John Nutter! Too bad.

Reply to
Doug B.

but they didnt get ahold of webarchive :)

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Reply to
Jon Davis

Those two fuses are only for the electrical portion of the solevac (throttle kicker), and have no bearing on computer operation.

Reply to
bllsht

Not anymore :(

Reply to
Steve Foley

Hmm..so I see, must update the link. :(

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Reply to
DougW

So the current plan is the nutter bypass. That gives me a year to get the MPI kit.

Reply to
Steve Foley

Ouch!

You had burned wires under the dash as well when that choke wire shorted out. Firing the circuit back up likely allowed a couple of the old melted areas burn some more.

The under hood wiring from a CJ7 will work for your engine controls. If you check out the nutter, it describes one of the color differences. I think it is only the orange wire turning green.

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I only have the Nutter and on my last emissions I passed I got 15 ppm HC and 0.16% CO.

You just need to do a tune up before emissions. Manually the engine sets up cleaner than that crappy Ford computer can do.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Steve Foley wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

Too bad it also sends NOx through the roof.

Reply to
bllsht

Ahh, the $tealership 'techs' ESP is working great still I see...

'My' vehicle is not required to have a catalytic converter nor does it get tested for NOx and my last test just put N/A in those places.

'If' I had a cat like a bunch of my friends driving Nuttered YJ's, I would pass NOx the same as 'they' do.

Dork.

Mike

Reply to
Mike Romain

Reply to
L.W.(ßill) Hughes III

I said the nutter hack raises NOx emissions. Just because you don't get tested for it, doesn't mean it's not there. What part are you not understanding?

'If?'

'If' you had a cat, and 'if' your test was in California, you'd fail miserably, as would your pals.

I prefer to avoid 'if' and stick to facts. The nutter hack will raise NOx emissions.

Reply to
bllsht

Got news for ya.

I have compared emissions papers with folks from California and we have lower top end readings allowed up here. They are allowed to have way higher readings and still pass with older vehicles.

And just 'how' do you 'know' the Nutter will raise NOx? Talking strictly 'facts' here. I mean I am 'sure' you $tealer techs would never try something like that, so how do you know this 'fact'.

The 'fact' that you tuned something to lower the readings or added a computer back in means nothing. I too can play around with the settings to raise and lower NOx.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Reply to
Mike Romain

Reply to
L.W.(ßill) Hughes III

Wow, you are 'allowed' 329 ppm HC tops and I am 'allowed' 300 ppm. You also are 'allowed' 3.83% CO ! I am 'allowed' 1.5%.

I have the highest 'allowed' readings in my 86 CJ7.

You are running pretty clean though and could still pass 'our' test with your readings. LOL!

Mike

"L.W.(ßill) Hughes III" wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

You can't compare apples and oranges. Comparing cutpoints for your vehicle against cutpoints for a vehicle 8-10 years older won't fly.

I showed you months ago how much higher the cutpoints where you are for NOx are WAY higher than they are here for the same vehicle.

Well, they guys who have their Jeeps hacked and then fail their smog test have to get them fixed somewhere! Hook the computer back up, and set it to specs, and it passes easily.

LOL, that's getting pretty weak.

Fact: Vehicle was hacked. It failed. NOx high.

Fact: Vehicle was 'unhacked'. It passed.

Pretty clear to me. You getting confused again?

Reply to
bllsht

Reply to
L.W.(ßill) Hughes III

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