clanking sound that driving me nuts.

It can be really hard to diagnose a problem if it only happens occasionally and it never seems to happen when the service manager is doing the test drive!

We will assume Cottman checked the atf level again yesterday as well as the fluid's consistency and smell and found no problem such as burnt or foam there.

Hopefully you mean to drain the fluid in the pan and change the filter not a 'flush'. Most autoboxs now have one-way valves in the system and the 'flushes' promoted by the quickie-lubes attempt to back flush the system which is either ineffective or will damage the system. And well ..... back flushing is not recommended by any of the manufacturers.

While you have the pan off you may consider adding a drain plug. It makes fluid changes as easy as an oil change.

I'm not sure what effect the exhaust might have although I am wondering if the exhaust problem night be the cause of the 'transmission' noise.

I've had pipe joint failures, pipes rust/rot out, mufflers rust out, and one that the end seams (crimped) failed and the end flap would flex out at certain RPMs They all have their own characteristic noises but generally all get louder under load.

Reply to
billy ray
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By any chance did you get your repairs done late on a Friday just before a long weekend--when the local topless bar was offering two for one specials?

Either loose exhaust or they screwed up your cat. Or both.

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Reply to
Lon

Reply to
lilgrasshopper

See if you can get someone to help you find the source of the noise. I've seen muffler hangers shift and open small holes, also seen manifolds go bad. The catalyst if bad tends to rattle and cause crappy emissions. Changing exhaust parts is one of the least technical jobs on a vehicle. It is also one of the most painful in terms of stripped bolts, busted knuckles, etc. The hummmm sound could be an exhaust leak or a muffler with a broken internal baffle. A good local mom and pop muffler shop might be willing to check your exhaust system for a few bucks. The name brand chains tend to be about the same price as a dealer and not as good.

snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com proclaimed:

Reply to
Lon
  1. How hot should the engine be on a normal driving? looking for temperature here.

  1. Where is the ac evaporator on a 1995 jeep grand cherokee, my ac has that dead mouse smell. gonna do the lysol thing and that.

  2. Should i do a cooling system flush, maybe the engine is not properly cool thereby causing it to over heat and clank

thanks

john Mike Roma> If you have a bad fan clutch, it will overheat in slow traffic because

Reply to
lilgrasshopper
  1. How hot should the engine be on a normal driving? looking for a temperature here.

  1. Where is the ac evaporator on a 1995 jeep grand cherokee, my ac has that dead mouse smell. gonna do the lysol thing and that.

  2. Should i do a cooling system flush, maybe the engine is not properly cool thereby causing it to over heat and clank.

thanks

john Mike Roma> If you have a bad fan clutch, it will overheat in slow traffic because

Reply to
lilgrasshopper

I had EXACT same noise during hot conditions/intermittent etc. on my old '95 Grand Cherokee. There should be an inspection plate/cover where your trans. and torque convertor meet the engine. Pull cover and eyeball the bolt-heads, they are "ticking" against the flat plate cover after enough heat expansion takes up the minimal clearance. As far as othe noise...l found a heat shield above the Cat conv. falling off.

Reply to
EDWARD BELLUS

Really, interesting. I took it to the people that rebuilt my transmission and they were like, it's fine. "we took it for a drive and heard nothing"

was it when you put it in park the sound goes away? what did you do? i plan to drive it off a cliff or a river, whichever comes first!

EDWARD BELLUS wrote:

Reply to
lilgrasshopper

Dude, my 97 ZJ does the exact same thing after having my trans rebuilt. Only does it when it is hot out, long slow moving traffic or slow moving on the trails. It got so bad once it sounded like a bolt wizzing and gringing around the scatter shield between the trans and engine block so I shut her down, removed the access panel to see if the guy forgot to tighten up a torq converter bolt, but nothing was lose or missing..?? I let it cool for about an hour, started her up and all was fine..?? Over the months I noticed the clanking will go away once the torq converter locks up, I even have the sound on video as I record allot of our trail rides with a bumper cam, showed it to the dude that rebuilt my trans (from Mr Transmission) and he swears that sound could not be comming from the transmission... But it IS comming from the transmission, so I will prolly have to eat another rebuild sooner or later cuz of that noise..

Now, I do have close to 100K miles on that rebuild though, I change my fluid and filter every 30K - 40K miles as I am terrably rough on her, and can drive 400 miles in a bad week for my job while rolling 32" mud tires, factory gearing and a 4" lift. Very embarrassing to pass other trail riders as I am sure they think it is a rod knocking, my clanking will get so bad it WILL make the noise in N or park, the olny cure I have found is to either stop and let her cool down or drive maybe 30 miles on the highway so the torq converter will lock then it will cool down on it's own and stop the noise. I had the trans guy put an external trans cooler with a rather large fan on it right after I 1st noticed the clanking sound, did not help but I am sure it did not hurt either..

Jerry..

Reply to
PeoplePC news Server

I took it to the transmission guy and he was like, hey, I took it for a ride, did not hear the sound. Have a nice day. So I told him, man, it only gets hot in stop and go traffic.

What do you mean when you said "the torq converter locks up" ??

-John Pe> Dude, my 97 ZJ does the exact same thing after having my trans rebuilt. Only

Reply to
lilgrasshopper

The inside of a torque converter looks like 2 fan blades really close together. One is spinning when the engine is turning, and the other spins when the fluid "spins" from the first fan. This is what moves the vehicle. The torque converter locks up when the computer detects that the transmission is in overdrive and the load on the engine and throttle opening indicate that the vehicle is "cruising". The converter has a clutch in it which is activated when the computer energizes a switch in the transmission. Basically what this does is makes the converter a direct drive, much like releasing the clutch pedal on a manual transmission. It all but eliminates any slippage in the converter. The benefits are less heat in the transmission fluid, lower engine RPM under cruise conditions and usually better fuel economy. By design, the slippage is usually between 5 and 10%.

Chris

Reply to
c

Thanks.

Well, when I had my radiator done, the guy said I should get a flush. Would it make sense to reason that the transmission is not getting cooled sufficiently causing the clanking (read my post and responses). A radiator cooling system flush will/probably help? I am tired of taking it to the guy and he's giving me the "see no evil, hear no evil" treating. What noise? I don't hear any noise.

*sigh* c wrote:
Reply to
lilgrasshopper

Insufficient transmission cooling will usually manifest as burnt, smelly fluid, slipping and finally outright failure. Clanking is not a common sign of this, but it certainly won't hurt to flush your cooling system. Lots of "auto repair technicians" will suggest cooling system flush, oil change, rotate tires, etc. when they don't know what else to do, however.

Earle

Reply to
Earle Horton

I flushed mine a week or so ago and no change at all, still clanks, I am not as freaked as I was when the sound 1st started though, I almost don't notice it anymore in the city, on the trails it is totaly embarrassing though. Like I said earlier I beat the poor girl off road with stock gears mud tires a lift with about 100K since the rebuild and she still keeps on keepin' on, I guess I will worry about it once it duz finaly die. Been looking around the bone yards for a sorta cheap emergancy replacement in case it takes a quick dump on me with no warning, it's my daily driver so have nothing to fall back on..

Jerry

Reply to
PeoplePC news Server

Last Saturday, I took my car to Cottman in Metuchen, NJ and asked them to check my radiator on the theory that it is not providing enough cooling to the tranny. He checked and said it was fine and he was able to duplicate the clanking by power braking, stepping on the gas and brake at the same time. He said to take it to Cottman in Freehold, NJ and tell them it could be the torque converter or flywheel and if they have any question to call him.

Well, I took it to freehold and the owner was there and he heard it, he was like okay, it could be the torque converter but I am not a mechanic, I'd have to have my guy look at it.

I dr> Insufficient transmission cooling will usually manifest as burnt, smelly

Reply to
John

Hi gang:

Last Saturday, I took my car to Cottman in Metuchen, NJ and asked them to check my radiator on the theory that it is not providing enough cooling to the tranny. He checked and said it was fine and he was able to duplicate the clanking by power braking, stepping on the gas and brake at the same time. He said to take it to Cottman in Freehold, NJ and tell them it could be the torque converter or flywheel and if they have any question to call him.

Well, I took it to freehold and the owner was there and he heard it, he was like okay, it could be the torque converter but I am not a mechanic, I'd have to have my guy look at it.

I dr> I flushed mine a week or so ago and no change at all, still clanks, I am not

Reply to
John

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