Clutch master cylinder nuts are ovaled on one end???

Man!
I wanna meet the idiot who designed the nuts that go on the bolts for my
clutch master cylinder!!!
The hole and threads are round on one end... and they are oval!! on the
other end...
My gosh... what were they thinking? I had all kinds of heck getting these
things out and I'm on my way to go get some new ones. Not gonna fight those
things again putting em back in. The threads are toast but the bolts look
ok.
Could that be intentional to keep them from loosening?
I think things would be much easier if they used say... olive oil instead of
brake fluid :o). That stuff eats everything up lol.
Also- anyone know where the bleed screw is on my external slave? I
can feel something on top... feels like a zerk maybe.
Skip
86 Cherokee
Reply to
<m>
That is intentional, they are lock nuts.
Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
m wrote:
Reply to
Mike Romain
As Mike says, they're lock nuts and they're on there for a reason, so put them back. Re the bleed screw, you're on the right track. Not only does it feel like a zerk, it looks like one. Are you sure you're not over you're head here?
Reply to
Steve G
Thanks for the help guys-
I asked at the parts counter about the nuts too... I was hoping they were wrong but I kinda knew they were made that way.
Try doing this with no air tools and just yourself and 2 of the $10 3/8' socket sets sometime lol ;o)
Fun inventing ways to jam one socket set against something around the firewall in the engine compartment while you loosen the nuts inside with the other socket set.
I dropped the tranny in my 76 camaro by myself to change the clutch a long time ago when you could rent a lift... to say the least I was surprised how heavy it was hehe... but didn't drop it. Swapped out the entire front body section with new parts and then sent it to get painted.
Life's boring without a challenge now and then.
Skip
Reply to
<m>
Using an air tool on this type of nut can cause it to damage the bolt. I do it by hand, but my socket set is pretty good. Flare wrenches protect the hydraulic fasteners from damage when torquing, so next time, it's not a nightmare. If you intend to do your own work, quality tools are a worthy investment.
Reply to
Paul Calman
Use two wrenches on it:
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God Bless America, ßill O|||||||Omailto: snipped-for-privacy@aol.com m wrote:
Reply to
L.W.(ßill)
Well I found a small tip for ya maybe... I picked up a 16mm open-end wrench for a buck at the hock shop... I slide that onto the left-hand bolt head inside the firewall and rest it against the brake master... then I tighten from inside the vehicle with a 5/8 (close enuf) spark plug socket on a 3" extension... on the right-hand bolt it's close enough to the body of the master that it holds fast. I picked up a 16mm socket for a buck too, but had to switch back to the deep socket pretty quick.
It went back on easier than it came off except for a stupid bracket inside the cabin running from the firewall to the side panel by the firewall (wtf?). The holes wouldn't like up so I had to rig some wire ties to hold it in place... I had to pull the washer bottle too :o) But no wobble extension needed.
So I get it all back together and I'm ready to work on bleeding... I'm pumping the pedal...
And the *%$@#*!@ piston pulls completely out of the master... it just dropped right the &%#$ out :o(
I am not a happy camper lol. Gotta call O'Reilly in a minute.
And I was liking this new master cyl... has a translucent plastic reservoir with a bayonet cap... the body looks like steel instead of aluminum. But man....
Grrr.... &*%#$@^!*
Reply to
<m>
I was told to put it back in and take shorter strokes. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto: snipped-for-privacy@aol.com
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m wrote:
Reply to
L.W.(ßill)

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