Grand Wagoneer Fan Blade/Viscous Fan

I'd appreciate help in diagnosing the actual parts needing replacement with the following symptoms:

A chattering noise led me to note that the cooling fan blades were striking the fan shroud. Closer inspection revealed that the fan was wobbling, and even further inspection showed that the viscous fan clutch is wobbling on the shaft.

Now, I do not know if this means that a water pump replacement is required, or whether the viscous fan can be removed from the shaft at the end nearest the radiator. If it can,. I can't see how to release the fan clutch from the shaft without removing the water pump.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

I know that this has been covered in part in other posts, but I am hopeful of getting the usual spot-on advice about this specific set of circumstances.

Reply to
randallbrink
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Yes that fan clutch easily, or it should be easily, unbolts from the waterpump. You might have to move the fan shroud out of the way. Not sure if I disposed of my low mileage fan clutch from my '82 Wag 360 that I bought just before I retired my Wag.

Reply to
dave AKA vwdoc1

OK, so if the fan clutch "wobbles" on the shaft, then simply replacing the fan clutch and not the water pump is fix? I cannot as yet see how the fan clutch separates from the fan, but will figure that one out by inspecting the fan.

Many thanks!

Reply to
randallbrink

Upon closer inspection, I was able to see how the clutch unbolted from the water pump and did so, replaced the fan clutch, and, unable to locate a new or used fan shroud on short notice, managed to MacGyver the old one by re-installing it, and using old friend Gorilla Glue to fuse the cracked fan housing together!

Jeep now purrs like a kitten, no ratting of the fan striking the fan housing--fan steady as a rock.

I do have one question though: The new fan clutch milled attachment plate, where it bolts to the water pump, is about 1/4 inch thicker than the old one. As a consequence, the studs are not long enough to come all the way through the lock nuts. I can see the stud a fraction short of emerging from the hex nut, but have always been told that the stud should protrude beyond the nut. They do have lock washers, and they are on there very tight, but is this something to be concerned about?

Thanks again!

Reply to
randallbrink

Sometimes the studs thread on both ends and will work back. But I'm at a loss as to why the plate would be 1/4" thicker. Considering this is a vibration area and a loose fan can eat your radiator for lunch, I'd at least put some blue threadlock on the nuts. Also watch the radiator to fan clearance. You don't want fan flex to munch the rad.

Reply to
DougW

I don't know why the mating plate is thicker. This one has the slots instead of bore-through holes. I do worry about anything that is not properly installed, and I have long believed that studs should go all the way through the nut. These are close, but I believe you should see two or three three threads protruding. I could take the fan clutch off and grind it down some, but I don't want to unbalance any part of it.

Reply to
randallbrink

LONGER STUDS!!! Using Blue Locktite is good too for safety! ;-)

I don't know why the mating plate is thicker. This one has the slots instead of bore-through holes. I do worry about anything that is not properly installed, and I have long believed that studs should go all the way through the nut. These are close, but I believe you should see two or three three threads protruding. I could take the fan clutch off and grind it down some, but I don't want to unbalance any part of it.

Reply to
dave AKA vwdoc1

Can I remove the studs from the frontspiece of the water pump and replace them with ones another 1/4" - 1/2" longer?

Reply to
randallbrink

Yes! You can use 2 nuts and lock them together on the stud which will basically make that stud a bolt which you can use a wrench on the inner nut to remove the stud. ;-) Give it a try and let us know!

Can I remove the studs from the frontspiece of the water pump and replace them with ones another 1/4" - 1/2" longer?

Reply to
dave AKA vwdoc1

I replaced the studs, but now the fan will not turn at start-up-- squeals and it smells hot. Before I replaced the studs and reinstalled the fan, the fan turned smoothly and quietly.

Reply to
randallbrink

too long.

You bound the pump and caused the belt to slip.

When replacing studs always check to make sure the fan turns freely. Somtimes they have to be cut down a few threads.

Reply to
DougW

Doug--

OK, that's what I had begun to suspect as I was pondering over the change in behavior. The water pump is not turning.

Do you recommend removing the studs and cutting them off by 1/4"?

Thanks very much.

Reply to
randallbrink

use a bit of wire to measure the depth of the threaded sections and to check just how far back you go before hitting metal.

The old studs should also give you a good idea how far they went in.

Reply to
DougW

OK. Will do.

This all started with a new fan clutch that was milled thicker than the OEM part. I'm worried now that any stud length that will work with the new thicker fan attachment plate will be too long. I'll know in the morning.

Thanks very much again, for all the help.

Reply to
randallbrink

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