Having trouble keeping it going

Dwayne Smith did pass the time by typing:

On my old C-10 I just went around and sprayed TB cleaner on every hose connection. Eventually I found two areas, one was the carb gasket and the other was the brake booster. Another worker had similar issues and it was the vacuum reservoir. His old Ford used a tin can as the reservoir and it had a hairline crack right around the seam.

Grab yourself a vac gauge, they are handy for diagnosing these problems.

You did say you rebuilt the carb, did you adjust the mix? Too rich/lean will also cause idle stumble.

Try this website.

Dwayne Smith wrote:

Thanks for the help. This diagram looks alot better then the one I got my hands on.

Dwayne

If you haven't done it yet, you should perform what is known as the NUTTER BYPASS. Do a search of this website, and you should find it. It HP to your jeep. Much better performance. If you can't find it, I can email it to you.

Dwayne Smith wrote:

I'll give this a try.

Thanks for the help!

Dwayne

Clean your idle tubes.

Look for raw gas dumping in the carb... is the needle and seat adjusted and working? How's the mixture smell? Take the idle vent tube off and watch for gas coming out. __ Steve .

That screams plugged up idle tubes to me.

The idle tubes are crimped at the ends and are basically too small so they plug up. A chemical clean will 'not' get them clear. I have seen

The fix is to physically ream them out using a mini drill or file. I got my set of metered files at a welding supply house. They are used for cleaning torch tips.

Here is a link to this Weber-Carter BBD fix:

I have it down to a 15 minute trail fix if needed, if you take out the choke plate only, the venturi cluster will twist around and lift out without having to take apart the carb. A strand of copper wire will kick out the chunk or chop it so you can blow it through.

One other sneaky one is the U tube from the filter to the carb. That sucker holds dirt and is steel so it rusts with alcohol gas mixes. Then the rust flakes get in and plug tubes. (The owners manual warns against 'any' alcohol mixes.)

All this is assuming you didn't mess with the factory idle mix screw settings as the stepper motor takes them from factory set best lean idle and plays.

The Nutter bypass mentioned will give a sweet 25% seat of the pants power boost and over 10 mph per gear extra, but you need to know how to set the idle mix on a carb properly to make it run. It won't fix something broken.....

Theoretically is is illegal for emissions testing, but........

It will still pass the tailpipe emissions and if you leave all the junk in place the visual. I have been told but can't verify that somehow a visual and 'Nutter' just won't cut it in California, but doubt it.

One other thing that can make the idle way high is a totally blown charcoal canister purge valve. Yours is old enough for that. The symptoms are piles of oil blowing into the air filter and a high idle.

To test trace the PCV line to the back of the carb. There you will hopefully find a T fitting, but a solenoid thing will do. One line off that goes to the charcoal canister way down under the washer bottle on the firewall. At idle pinch this line closed. If the idle drops, the canister is dead.

Hope this helps,

Mike

Dwayne Smith wrote: