Help: CJ idle/running problem

Guess I really have two questions - first about the over filled oil / blown seal. Second about how to diagnose the suddone failure to keep an idle.

Thanks again,

Rob

Change the oil as stated, but this engine may be worn and oil fouling the plugs - previous owner puts in a new set before he sells it, runs good for the test drive, hopefully that's not the case here Tookie - Denham Springs, LA

You really don't want the same answer for both....

Too much oil will hit the crankshaft. The crankshaft then turns the oil to foam. The oil pump pumps foam to the bearings. The engine then starts slowing down while seizing up from lack of oil.

Or hopefully you can just drain the sucker and put the right amount in and that will stop the oil all over the place.

You 'really' need to tell us what 'kind' of engine and the year for us to point you to say a common carb fix for no idle, leaky valve cover issues with one engine, etc...

Mike

Rob wrote:

just a quick question....where's the other end of hte dipstick?! did it break off in the engine? Will it get in to the oil pump or anything and do damage?

That does sound like a nightmare.

It's an '83 CJ-7 with the 258 I6. The owner replaced the stock carb with a Holley carb:

The motor was rebuilt in '97 about 14k miles ago.

Thanks again,

Rob

I checked the plugs today and luckily none were oily, though all looked "well seasoned". Roughly the look and feel of sandpaper - some light in color, others more reddish brown.

Thanks for the suggestion.

I'll change the oil in the next day or two when I can get home before dark.

Rob

Jo did pass the time by typing:

MMT / gasoline additives will make plugs that color and it's normal.

With oil all over the place, I think I would check inside the distributor cap for oil.

I then would drain the oil looking for metal flakes.

For not idling, I would suspect the gas filter first. They are strange too, they have an up and down. The center outlet goes to the carb and the top outlet goes to the return line. If the filter gets plugged it can pump too much back to the tank if it isn't in right side up. It also can syphon gas back to the tank when it sits.

Mike

Rob wrote:

I'll take a look at the filter - that might have something to do with something I noticed today.

I replaced all the spark plugs, removed and inspected each plug wire at both ends (including the one going to and from the distributor itself.)

I cleaned the contact point in the distributor cap and sanded off some minor corrosion on the rotor.

I bought a little neon light used for testing the distributor and wires and will try that tonight when it's dark.

Here's the weird thing. After the plug changes and distributor cleaning, it started fine and idled fine. As soon as I started backing down the driveway it began idling bad and started to die. I could barely get it back up the driveway. So ... it at least knows how to run right ... it just doesn't want to be driven anywhere! :)

That also could be a sticky EGR valve. They can act like that if gummed up. You could always pull the vacuum line off it to see.

Mike

Rob wrote:

I checked for the EGR valve and realized that along with the Holley carb, the previous owner aslo installed an Offenhauser intake and I believe the EGR valve is part of the stock intake. I'm not sure if this one has the plumbing for the EGRvalve or if I just don't know what to look for.

Also, there's a chrome covered cap/canister just beh>That also could be a sticky EGR valve. They can act like that if gummed

Well, the mystery is solved, but not without its own problems. The owner says he changed filters just a couple weeks prior to my coming to get the Jeep. In a desparation attempt, I changed the fuel filter and sure enough, a bunch of rust came out of the old and it began running fine with the new filter - for about 5 minutes then the same problem.

I'm assuming rust in the tank - do you guys recommend something to fix this tak, replace with another metal tank, or going plastic?

Any issues to be aware of if I go from 15 to 21 gallons?

Thanks,

Rob

Your tank has a screen on the gas pickup line, but rust can get through it.

Your problem usually happens when someone left the tank empty for extended periods and condensation killed it. It might really be dead or you might be able to flush it with a bunch of filters.

For rust like that, you can likely use compressed air and back blow the filters. The first one is trash but the ones that fill up fast can be cleaned.

This also doesn't say good things for the gas lines themselves.

I have the 76L plastic tank on mine. The fuel pickup and the skid plate are different than the steel tank.

If your tank is in good shape on the outside, there are places and kits you can buy to epoxy the inside of the tank. There used to be a place local to me that did them for $75.00 or something and Bike shops sell the kits for Bike gas tanks.

Mike

Rob wrote:

I really appreciate your time and ideas in this thread. I'll dig into the gas tank issue and decide which way to go. At least I have some peace of mind now knowing why it wasn't running right.

Again, many thanks,

Rob

You are welcome.

Mike

Rob wrote: