Jeep build advice

How about a recommendation

I have used cheap "Oven Cleaner". It is cheaper than "degreaser" and works faster. Just remember that what the label says it means!! It can ruin a paint job and a manicure!

Nutter is not a bad idea but I think I might wait on the complete head swap for the time being unless you've got a machined and assembled head that you want to donate to the project %-).

Although I prefer Simple Green to the more caustic automotive products, I've already put in the hours to get the undercarriage clean, and don't let stuff build up, so I don't need strong chemicals anymore.

Try the cheapest "purple" degreaser you can find at Pep Boys. Doesn't matter whether you get a brand name or a knockoff, its all about the same. With 19 years of gunk, A pressure washer will be faster, but you don't need it.

I've had good success with this process:

1. Put a cheap oscilating lawn sprinkler under the area you want to clean, turn the water on low, have a beer while the water softens the gunk.
2. Turn off sprinkler, spray purple stuff, have another beer while you wait for the cleaner to dissolve the gunk
3. Use parts brush, purple stuff soaked rags to scrub the crud off.
4. Turn on sprinkler to rinse, have two more beers.
5. Repeat steps 1-4 as necessary.

Move to the next area, do it again.

Takes a long time, but you'll be too drunk to care.

Robert Bills KG6LMV Orange County CA

Heee. What you really need is one of those old fashioned sprinklers with the ratchet driven wheels. Start it at the front and let it crawl under the whole vehicle.

PS. Is it acceptable to substitute "take a nap" for the beer? The gut is already big enough, besides am an old geezer.

i've had to rebuild my carter bbd 2x now and here's my advice-get that little can of carb cleaner-it should come with a little parts tray inside. it has a handle on it so all u have to do is put the parts in, dip it in for a little while (read directions) and it comes out clean! be careful to not leave it in for too long, else the parts may lose some material. after the cleaner, rinse the parts with clean water and dry them using air. have a couple of small trays handy (small cookie sheets will do) and take your time! don't use any coat hangers to ream/clean any holes-most holes in a carb are metered and u don't want to mess those up. change all the soft parts (seals, plastic (if any) and you're done! good luck! one last thing-look at the drawing carefully a few times before u begin. be careful to not upend the carb as u can lose small check balls and such.

The carb is a pretty easy one to rebuild with a kit. Read the directions a couple times 'before' you have that beer....

Basically if it is running now, then carefully record the settings on anything you 'need' to unscrew to clean. If you don't 'need' to unscrew it to clean it, don't...

The idle mix screws 'should' be blocked with a plug in the hole. Leave them alone unless someone has drilled out the plugs and messed with it already.

The mix screws are basically set at 'full rich' or about 5 turns out and the computer sets the mix via the stepper motor on the back of the carb.

The idle tubes need special attention. They have a crimped end on them that plugs up way too easy and carb cleaner just won't get them. They will need to be reamed. A piece of copper wire works, but the best is a cheap set of torch tip files you can get at any welding supply place.

Here is a link on the idle tubes:

For high altitude running, look at the wiring harness close to the oil pressure sender. You will find a black wire tucked in there not hooked to anything. This wire needs to be grounded to the engine block for high altitude compensation.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Chris Curt>

Mike, Thanks for the advice on the rebuild but I want to get away from that dinosuar as quickly as possible. I haven't read a single good thing about it. I have heard lots of good about this weber. Didn't get to the engine this weekend. Maybe I will have time in 2 more weekends as there is a wedding I don't want to go to this weekend. But enough of the boring stuff...What about the emissions\vaccuum stuff from the Carter? Can I just rip out all of it since I have no emissions to deal with here? I know I need the brake vaccuum input and the valve breathers but do I "need" or "want" anything else? Sorry for the simplististic questions. Thanks everyone for the input.

To have a good running engine, you need the EGR valve to avoid 'pinging', the PCV valve and charcoal canister combo which is the gas tank vent and the air flaps on the air filter to avoid the carb freezing up in humid weather.

That is all I have and I even pass the emissions applicable to my CJ7 easily. 15ppm HC and 0.16% CO.

If you are taking the stuff off, you need to get the computer out of the ignition loop. Otherwise it will go into limp home mode and clamp down on the timing. Here is a link on that.

Basically, I just add two new wires and hook the orange and purple at the ignition module to the orange and purple at the distributor rather than mess around inside the harness like the article's author does.

Mike

Chris Curt>