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Light problem again

Don't know if you all remember I had a light problem last month, was putting in LED tail lights, had signal till I put brakes on then no signal, Mike diagnosed I had a wire in one swapped, so I switched it, and all was fine, double checked all lights before final hookup, tail lights, good, brake lights good, signals good, signals, brake and light on, all good. So today was first test run, ( frame swap ) when I put first signal on the dash light for that one stayed on, when we came home we checked all, I have brake lights, I have signal lights, I have head lights, but no park lights, and also when I put on brakes, front passenger signal light comes on steady?????????

Reply to
Greg
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If you'll forgive a guess, LED lights don't draw as much current as incandescent, so depending upon the way the car's system detects a light malfunction, it may be necessary to add something called a load equalizer in order for the car to "believe" there is an intact filiment. This is something that is fairly common in LED retrofits.

Reply to
St. John Smythe

When the brakes are turning on the running light, they are stealing a ground through them with incandescent lights.

How this could work with LED's seeing as they are supposed to be diodes which are one way for DC, I am not sure.

Do you have an electronic flasher in?

Mike

Greg wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

No I don't have an electronic flasher, well not one I put in, previous owner may have, I read all about them though, sounds like it's a TJ problem with fast flash, so they have to switch to an electronic one. What I can't figure out is why everything worked fine till I took it for a drive. What does the reverse back up lights run off of, cause witht the LEDs you don't get that, did I maybe just blow the fuse for park lights because power for back up went some where there wasn't anywhere to go to? Haven't had a chance to have a look or get tester out, will do a little poking tomorrow afternoon.

Reply to
Greg

The reverse runs off a 10A, second from the top on the right, same one for the seatbelt buzzer.

The clock and hazard lights work off the 20A brake fuse, top right.

I think I would almost be wanting to check the front bulbs out for a failed one just because I can't think of anything else.... The glass has been known to fall out of the brass base causing major wierdness with the lights.

Nothing could have shifted and pinched could it? What about trailer hitch lights?

Don't you worry about getting nailed in a roadside check with no reverse lights? If you fail a roadside, it is tow truck or ticket time. I got nailed for having no working license plate light once. I guess your small town may either be an advantage or detriment to that though.

Mike

Greg wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

I don't use it for anything but off road, well and getting to off rd. but since my town only has 35 miles of rd from one end to other, I don't have to do much on rd. driving. It would fail for no sway bar anyway, so back ups are a minor one. What I meant about back ups was, I had 3 wires at back lights, also 3 on new lights, but as they don't have back ups, where is the power going when I put it in reverse???

Reply to
Greg

Oh... Hmm... Well what year is the wiring and maybe I can tell you which wire shouldn't be hooked up to anything, likely a red or white with red trace.

Mike

Greg wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain
81
Reply to
Greg

My book says green with and without trace (on left) are brake lights, white are running lights and white with a trace, likely red are the reverse lights in an 81.

Mike

Greg wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

Thanks, will play with tomorrow and report back.

Reply to
Greg

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