New engine break in procedure

I agree with you on this one. Basically, if I build an engine for someone, I tell them to drive it like they intend to use it the majority of the time. Of course this is after proper camshaft break-in. I don't recommend that someone take a new engine and start towing at the vehicle's maximum towing capacity at highway speeds in the mountains. Some of the information on that site is correct with regard to improved cylinder honing procedures, but this also depends on ring type.

Chris

Chris,

What is the proper cam shaft break-in method?

Thanks,

Bill

I've been finding and reading a lot on proper break-in procedures regarding cams but I'm finding virtually nothing on what symptoms would exist if the cam wasn't broke in properly. Are there any indicators which would indicate an improperly broken in cam? Loss of power, inspection of plugs, etc?

Thanks,

Bill

Rather than type it all out, check out this site:

Thanks Chris,

What would be some indicators/symptoms of an improperly broken in cam?

Thanks,

Bill

Well, the cam companies do everything possible to make sure that you don't have problems, but things can happen. The worst case scenario is that a lifter lobe will go flat. On rare occasion this can be caused by a soft cam core, but usually it is insufficient lube at startup. Cam problems really don't happen as much these days due to improved lubricants and cam manufacturing processes.

You probably won't notice anything right away, but if an intake lobe goes flat, you'll lose some power and eventually develop a miss similar to a bad plug or wire. If an exhaust lobe goes flat you'll get popping and backfiring through the carb/throttle body. This is because the exhaust will try to exit back through the intake manifold when the intake valve opens. Unfortunately I found this out the hard way when I had my first cam go bad and lost two exhaust lobes on it. This happened after 8000 miles, so it did take a while.

Chris

On Mon, 07 Jun 2004 12:14:54 -0700, L.W.(ßill) Hughes III wrote:

...I'm thinking that by "drive normally, for me anyways" he means he nowmally beats the snot outta it =-) Still your link was right on, and has been bookmarked for future use when thbis topic comes up, (which it does often and saved me typing out a long disertation..when I wasn't positive of the oiling system regarding the cam on the AMC engines..I haven't torn into one yet, and though I assumed that they used some form of splash oilingand would require the same break in service I was used to on the engines I have assembled both stock and not so stock =-)...I did not want to post erronious information on such an important topic. Of note, while we are on this topic, is on high performace engines (and correct me please if this differs for some reason for a jeep...though I cannot see why it would) it is generally reccomended to run light springs on the valves for the cam break in then switch afterwards to the heavy springs required for high RPMS...also, a typical garden sprayed with the wand cut off makes a nifty and inexpensive pre-oiler. I would like the groups comments on using WD-40 for the cylinders in assembly for quicker break in.I have heard various reccomendations from very knowledgeable people going both ways on this,.,,, I have and do use straight 20 weight non-detergent kendall oil for cylinders and in engine during 20 minute cam break in...then drain and switch to regular oil before seatinmg rings. As some might have noticed from my posts...I do not yet have a jeep....do have an AMC eagle....but have been doing engine building on aircooled VW's for a long time...and general wrenching for even longer. Principles of engineering do not change however, whatever the make, so I hope to eventually make a contribution to the group for the specific AMC knowledge I have allready picked up Via google from everyone elses years of skinned knuckles. =-)

...Gareth

Dude, you're a pig. :-) (just kiddin')

For years I have used a product called Lubriplate No. 105 on the cylinders and bearings. I then oil the rings with transmission fluid. I was told by several engine builders that this will prevent the oil from coking, especially between the 2 compression rings. I don't know if this holds water or not, but it has always worked for me whether it was a stock rebuild or a

Chris

I'm sure there are multiple ways to prelube an engine without having problems. The best thing to do, is do what you know works for you. I actually use a small amount of cam break in lube on the piston pins so that it stays where it needs to be until the engine is fired. The main thing is that there is absolutely no dirt in the engine and everything is well lubricated before fire up.

Chris