Thanks to everyone who helped me replace the rear seal on my 86 CJ. I got it back together and it seems to be holding so far. Next I would like to tackle the idle problem. The Jeep runs pretty well once it warms up, but the idle stutters and jumps when the engine is cold. I think the original carb has been replaced with a direct replacement model, and I know that the computer is completly bypassed -- the only vacuum left is to the pvc and to the distributer. Could this be just a clogged canister? btw, the plug wires look new, but I don't know how old the rotor, distributer cap, or plugs are. Thanks
Well, I suppose I'm willing to throw a little money at this project, so what about a new carb, ignition, coil, wires, and plugs? Any other stuff I should replace? What do you all suggest. I want to get her purring like a kitten. btw, this is an 86 CJ with the computer bypassed. Also, emmissions considerations are not a problem where I live.
Well, you are giving a perfect description of that timer choke working 'perfectly'.
The choke works on a timer that relies on how long it has seen 12 volts, not on how hot or cold it 'really' is.
I went manual choke. No more cold stumble issues, it just purrs now until warmed up.
A good tune up is always a good thing to do, especially the cap and rotor and plugs. If the wires are of an unknown vintage, then maybe them too.
Some other gotchas on the computer disable.
There are a few vacuum operated parts that need to be working for a smooth cold warm up. One big one is the air filter flaps that open and suck hot air from the manifold until it warms up.
Without this hot air intake, the carb can and will actually physically ice up in cold humid air.
That is why those air filters with the open case are not smog legal, they keep the engine in a choke condition or a flutter the gas pedal flood condition way too long.
Without the hot air tube, it takes at least twice as long to warm up and run stable.
Another important part is the heater element just below the carb. This is turned on as soon as the engine has oil pressure by using the oil pressure switch at the base of the oil sender. This sends a signal to a relay in the center of the firewall hanging off the wiring harness which sends a strong 12 volts to the heater and shuts off thermostatically via the t-stat in the rear of the manifold.
These two things are independent of any computer controls, they are mechanical items.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
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