oil pan for 3.4 in an XJ?

Ok, supposedly I was wrong about the 2.8L pan not fitting a 3.4L. If that's the case then what can I do to prevent a replacement pan from getting dinged by the axle? Somehow or another the pan managed to get whacked by the axle and the dent creased the pan enough to cause splits that leak.

Anyone have a clue as to whether the gasket will work?

While I'm in here what's it take to deal with a rear seal leak? It may or may not have one. This poor old beast had to pull several tons of dirt this spring and it seems like it might have developed a leak to the rear of the engine. Doesn't seem to be a valve cover so I'm left guessing about the rear seal. If I'm in there dealing with pan I might as well fix the rear if it's shot.

Anyone got a good supplier they'd recommend?

Thanks,

-Bill Kearney

this engine (both the 2.8 and the 3.4) is notorious for leaking distributor bases. Anytime you remove the distributor you should replace the O-ring seal thats in the groove at the base of the distributor. After about 30K miles (due to the hot metal the O-ring will harden, will loose its resiliancy and will allow oil to pass

For the pan/axel intereference, take a ball-peen hammer and bump block and move (deform) the metal of the pan where it would crash into the front differential when the axle springs are compressed. Take your time and keep tap-tap-taping with peen hammer until you have a smooth and large dimple to clear the diff. & axle. It takes time to learn how to use a peen hammer ... just be patient it will all come to you as you use it ---- dont lose patience or you'll break through the metal. a thousand whacks should move sufficient metal to create a dimple.

Hmmm, that's good to know. I'll take a closer look at it to see if that's involved in the leak. I've not done anything to the distributor since the new engine was installed. It's been about 15k miles since the swap; about 6 years ago, so I suppose it could be degraded. Given it's placement at the rear of the engine amidst a rats nest of wiring it's not something I'd usually chose to pull out.

Anyone make a pan that's already setup to avoid this problem? How about "doing something" to the axle to help it avoid being able to wreck the pan? There are a couple of bump-stops on the frame rails above the axles and I'm sure they're due for replacement. Heh, perhaps a lift kit!

-Bill Kearney

GM offers a "4X4" pan which has to be ordered separately when you buy the 3.4 as a 'crate engine' for installation into a Jeep XJ. the standard crate 3.4 has a 'deep sump' oil pan.

The 3.4 crate engine (PN 12363230) comes with the 'standard' oil pan PN

For the 4x4 pan conversion the standard oil drain will have to be moved as the standard 4x4 pan wlll have the oil drain interefere with the exhaust pipe.... you wont ever be able to open the drain ... or just get a retrofit auto trans oil drain adapter and be done with it.

h> > this engine (both the 2.8 and the 3.4) is notorious for leaking

I assume you DID change the flex plate... as the old 2.8 is externally balanced the 3.4 is internally balanced and requires a totally new/different flex plate ..... or you're going to get 'bodaceous' vibrations at high rpm if you didnt also change the flexplate. .

Oh yeah, everything else about the change was fine.

Any idea what the Jeep pan is? The one that comes with the 2.8L in a 4x4 setup?

I take it that's a part for inside the pan?

Hmmm, I may replace the oil pump anyway.

-Bill Kearney

Have NO idea.

This replaces the crate engine standard pan

Just the bottom plate and suction tube/screen.

Finally got the right pan for this thing. What are the right sealants to be using with the gaskets for the oil pan, rear seal and the valve covers? Both are GM parts, the pan gasket is rubber and the valve covers are cork.

Also just 'how far' does the engine have to be moved to disconnect the trans such that the rear seal (one piece) can be replaced? I ordered the seal figuring "if I'm in there I might as well be ready to replace it" but don't want to tackle the job if it requires complete removal. I'm figuring the pan replacement will involve 'some' movement of the engine but would prefer to avoid escalating the job.

I've had trouble over the past few years with not being able to get it reliably into four wheel low. The shift linkage doesn't seem to have enough 'throw' to make the full travel. If I'm faced with having to rearrange the driveline parts is there any practicality to dropping the trans while leaving the engine (mostly) in place? That being the case I'd have better excuse for replacing the rear seal.

Thanks,

-Bill Kearney