stripped lugnuts

Take it to the shop and let them do it. Would be a LOT less work for you.

Those nuts are the 'correct' size with that sheetmetal cap on it. If you try and loosen stuck nuts with the same socket, you'll end up rounding them. Try a socket 1mm smaller if the cap is wasted or completely off.

tw

Those are the correct sizes.

You can get reverse sockets now. They have a spiral grip bit and grab harder the harder you turn. I have heard those do good things.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail > The caps are 3/4" and the inner nuts are 18mm. I've tried other sizes,

Have you tried heating them? Also, I once had some stuck lug nuts and I found I could get better leverage with a large cross + lung wrench than with a breaker bar.

I replaced mine with the 1 piece solid long chrome lugnuts. If you want my old 2 piece lugnuts you can have them (2 sets).

Now that you have the cheap caps ripped off and you are left with regular lugnuts, use the proper size wrench to remove them. you will need to soak them for a day or 2 with good petetrating oil (not WD40). Use a good cross or breaker bar with a long pipe on it. Put some pressure on it and have a buddy hold a flat piece of metal over the exposed end of the cross and whack it with a 3 pound mallet. If that doesen't work, repeat with a little more pressure and a heaver mallet.

When I put the lugnuts on, I put a little "fluid film"TM on the threads and torque them properly. Don't use a gun, always use a torque wrench. Retorque after 1 week.

Merrill

here:

Curious, where did you find the 'wet' torque values for your lug nuts?

If you are promoting a fluid on the threads, you should post the torque settings too or it is bad information.

There is a 'radical' difference in the torque values on a dry nut and stud vs a wet one and the books give dry....

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: N> I replaced mine with the 1 piece solid long chrome lugnuts. If you

here:

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My wife's first XJ had the same friggin' thing happen - I feel your pain.

I used a torch to heat the lug nut and managed to get a good enough grip with some vise grips to break it free -

good luck paul

You are right Mike, I don't have wet torque specs.

I have always put a drop on the threads and tightened to 75 ft/lb as per the Haynes manual. I didn't specify this number because it could be wrong. But wet or dry I have always retourqued after a few days of driving and haven't had a problem yet.

Merrill

here:

This is not the first time the Haynes manual has given me bad information. I have 3 XJs with alloy wheels so I don't like to take a chance on wheels coming loose.

I don't like to pass on bad information. Mike is right, I only use a drop of fluid film on the threads so the lugnuts spin on easily and come off easily. But it works for me and I would not want anyone to think this means that if a little is good then soaking the threads is better. This could be really dangerous. I do it but I shouldn't recommend it for others

Merrill

I have used anti-seize lubricant but I wouldn't recommend it to others either. ;^)

If clean dry threads are good, and wet lubricated threads are bad, then how about rusty threads? You are not going to get the same torque values from rust, that you get from dry steel.

An old farmer I did some contract work for in 1975 recommended water on tractor tire lugs. "It's like glue when it dries to rust."

Earle