What gearing?

In news:dWeqc.213955$ snipped-for-privacy@nwrddc01.gnilink.net, SDR from was injured because:

| I have a 94 YJ - 4.0L and put a 4" lift with 33X10.5 wheels. | How I need to regear. Where can I find some info on what | gears. Also getting some vibration from the drive line. The | transfer case is lowered but still is a problem. | | Thanks, | | Doug

In news:dWeqc.213955$ snipped-for-privacy@nwrddc01.gnilink.net, SDR from was injured because:

| I have a 94 YJ - 4.0L and put a 4" lift with 33X10.5 wheels. | How I need to regear. Where can I find some info on what | gears. Also getting some vibration from the drive line. The | transfer case is lowered but still is a problem. | | Thanks, | | Doug

Sorry wrong link...here ya go:

near the bottom of the page....

I have the same year YJ 4.0L that's on it's third suspension, now an RE

4.5". With a 4" lift you need to install a quality slip yoke eliminator kit, it's really the only way to get rid of the driveline vibes. When I ran 33s, and before I swapped out my stock axles for Dynatrac units, I regeared to 4.10s and liked it a lot. 4.56s are a bit much with 33s.

Most prefer 4.56 with 33" tires and the 4.0L. If you have a 5-speed and do alot of highway driving, 4.10 works well. If available, 4.27 might be nice. Do the math for what you have now and see how each would compare:

As an alternative to pricey new gears, consider used 4.10s from salvaged

4-cylinder Jeeps.

Lowering your t-case will not necessarily cure vibes. The slope of your slip yoke and that of the rear pinion must be parallel. You can use shims under your rear leaf springs to point the pinion either up or down as required to make these slopes equal. But, with a short wheel base and

4" over stock, it's likely that the relative angle of the rear shaft between these two slopes will be greater than 15 degrees in which case a tail shaft conversion and double cardan shaft are required:

I have a 94 YJ - 4.0L and put a 4" lift with 33X10.5 wheels. How I need to

You need 4.56 gears.