1987 landrover

|| I'm new to this group and I don't know landrovers very well. I'm || thinking of buying a 1987 Defender 4x4 here in California. I am || hoping that someone out there can give me some advise. || || The car has 173,000 miles, V8 3.7L (according to the owner), and || it's an automatic. The main problem is a leaky rear main seal. || There is slight body damage to the front passenger side corner, but || the rest of the car seems to be in good condition. The owner wants || $2500 for it (I think I can talk him down). || || My main concerns are: || 1. Can the seal be replaced by a good shade-tree mechanic (namely || me)? Or are there special problems or tools needed? || 2. How is the automatic for off roading? Is replacing the auto || with a manual transmission feasible or cost effective, or even worth || considering? || 3. What should I look out for in this model and year? || 4. Considering the age and condition, is $2500 a good price? || || Any advise would be gratefully accepted. Jim || -- || When mailing to me change pactell.net to pacbell.net. Thanks

The engine will be 3.5 or 3.9 - never heard of a 3.7.

Stick with the automatic - far better off road. And slight body damage is an advantage - gives character. Just don't pay over the odds for it - make your own ;-)

I can't comment on US prices, but 2500USD equates to about 1700GBP - sounds pretty good to me.

They're usually 3.5 or 3.9L

It may have had a .030" overbore (max. for a 3.5?) not sure that this would give you a 3.7L - maybe someone on this NG can confirm?

A rear crank seal is a pain to change - it's not difficult, but getting at it involves moving a fair bit of heavy stuff!

Automatic off road is great! - only downside is steep descents - the engine braking is not as good as a manual - although most times this can be reduced with a bit of left foot brakeing (some off roaders will sneer at this comment, but they've probably never tried a very steep descent in an auto!)

The best thing with an autobox is that it gets into the highest gear asap, this means that generally it minimises traction problems, 'cos the torque supplied to the wheels is minimised.

Given a choice, I would use an autobox in preference to a manual every time!

Regards,

Horse

I assume you mean the rear crankshaft oil seal, if so its not a particularly complex job, but is time consuming and heavy, as the engine or gearbox needs to come out (engine for preference), then the driveplate needs to come off to get to the seal. (possibly sump off and rear bearing cap off too)

Auto far superior off road, with the exception of the fact that it has less engine graking

Evidence of regular oil change (every 300 miles, 6000 max) is essential, as this engice tends to get gummed up at the top end, leading to noisy tappets. Will probably be ready for a new camshaft at that sort of mileage. Check for chassis rust, rust around the top of the bulkhead where it meets the windscreen, rust in the footwells (I'm not sure if rust will be much of a problem in california, but thats where they tend to go rotten in good old blighty!)

Sounds reasonable, what sort of price would you pay for a similar mode with no 'issues' over there? The way you describe the car, you want to be paying around 75% of the price of a clean one without the oil leak or body damage..

mmmmmmm - down to personal opinion that one!

which to me is vital - still, each unto their own and all that!

Richard

Agreed - engine braking is the number one safety requirement off-road if you drive n anything slippy with hills.

I would agree with the above re auto off-roading. On steep descent, put left foot on brake at TOP of hill, just enough to hold the vehicle. Then press accelerator just enough to take the vehicle over the lip of the hill against the brake.

Keep left foot on brake at same pressure and you will go slowly and safely down the hill. Takes a bit of practice. I was taught that technique by an experienced off-road trainer in the UK on a Jeep Cherokee, would you believe.

I really don`t see any advantage of an auto offroad - people say things like it minimises wheel spin, infinitely low gearing blahblahblah, but with a manual you don`t get wheelspin! Its called throttle control and knowing what gear to select for what obstacle. If you`re used to getting to a lump or axle twister and just wellying it in 2nd low - then yes you`ll get massive wheelspin and grind to a spectacular and muddy halt, but if you trickle it through and read the ground - be in the right gear and use appropriate throttle settings you`ll get through just as easily as an auto will. Then you have the issue of hill descents. They`re scary enough as it is, don`t need to start worrying about the car getting away from you as well and having to use the footbrake... Autos in my view take away part of the skill in offroad driving. (puts on flame suit and takes cover)

Nick C