300Tdi Squeak- Fix problem, not symptons

Hi, in recent months there have been a number of "sqeak" related questions. In reading through them, and I have responded a couple of times, it is important to address the real problem and not simply chase "noises".

Addressing just the noise issue will result in short term fixes only, and some of these will only last hours and others days.

It is agreed that the noise is a pain, and that it is caused by the grooved belt running poorly in the grooves of the various pulleys. By applying lubricants, water, and goodness knows what else we fix the noise but not the real problem.

The real problem is the way the belt tracks. If you have a vehicle with say 60-70000 kms or more at it starts this nuisance noise then the problem is, in my experience, poor belt tracking caused by the belt tensioner.

If you look closely at the tensioner from the front of the engine you will see that it has two halfs. One attached to the motor and the other with an arm and the pulley. This bounces up and down and supposedly keeps everything under tension.

Look closely between the halfs, comparing 9 oclock position with 3 oclock.

You will see that at the 3 oclock position there is a "washer or spacer" between the 2 halfs thats a sort of browny grey colour.

Now look at the 9 oclock position and you should see the same thing ie same colour and thickness.

If not then you have found your problem. The tension is no longer running parallel to the belt, and this slight degree of misalignment is enough to push the belt forward and cause the loud screaching noise.

Solution:

  1. Cheaper method;

Remove belt, and remove tensioner.

Measure the amount of missing "spacer/washer"-usually about 0.8-1.2mm (just kidding) but its not much.

Make up a shim of the same size and fit this behind the tensioner on the drivers side (left when looking into the engine bay).

Refit belt, and test run etc. All things being equal this will fix the problem and give you time to save up for method 2.

  1. Proper Fix

Remove belt, and fit brand new tensioner. It is a semi disposable part that will require changing every x ooo kms, all of which depend on where you are, the colour of your eyes and the humidity at the centre of the antartic.

If you want I can take some photos and post them on a webpage if you like, but please look at you tensioner before anymore lubricant related fixes are tried.

Cheers

Phillip Simpson

PS Why am I writing this-because a friend of mine has just brought his car around and I'm doing this fix right now.

Reply to
Phillip Simpson
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Hi again, can confirm some more details for those technically minded.

  1. Time to complete Method 1 About 15 mins

  1. Shim thickness used 0.38mm

  1. Did it work. Yes

4.Tools required 15mm ring spanner (lifts pulley to loosen belt), then use 15mm socket to remove tensioner

5.Part Number for Method 2 ERR4708

Please note that Method 1 is a only meant as a short term fix. If nothing else it allows you to confirm that the tensioner is the problem, and then save for the tensioner.

LR have reduced the prices of the tensioner, at least in Australia by some 30-40%-perhaps they know something we don't.

If you leave Method 1 in for too long ie 10000km or more, then you run the risk of the tensioner failing to work due to the fact the "brown grey washer " wears away and the two halfs are no longer seperated, and could bind. This is not good as without the proper tension the belt can jump etc and you may be without power assisted steering and your water pump-not good options.

Use this information in the spirit it was given, but in the full understanding that Method 1 is a temporary solution only.

Cheers

Phillip Simpson

Reply to
Phillip Simpson

Hi Phil.

Any idea of the cost of a new tensioner.

Had a new belt at the last service and now it makes all sorts of weird noises including a loud click which can be heard inside the car.

After a few minutes of driving all is quite again.

Nearly went and bought a new water pump as I was convinced it was about to pack up.

Reply to
Simon Mills

Hi Phillip,

Do a Google Groups and you'll find the subject is far from new!

Is it?

By applying lubricants, water, and

True!

That is possible. I produce videos professionally and know a bit about tape path alignment! Clearly, there are similar problems with the serpentine belt and the grooves are probably an attempt to keep the belt correctly tracked.

That makes sense.

Unfortunately, even this seems to have been tried and didn't solve the problem. Also, another poster says the bearing is readily available as a standard item so no need to go to LR. I can't see that anything would wear in this part except the bearing. When aligning the tape path in a video recorder, adjustment is achieved by slightly tilting the various guides (tensioner in the case of the 300Tdi). You may have hit on something with your shims which would also explain why replacing the tensioner doesn't always fix the problem.

I shall do that today!

Thanks for your input. The Squeak must be exterminated!

Derry

Ah! Now that will be interesting!

Reply to
Derry Argue

Hi Simon, I get them for around $152.00. If you want to come down give me a call and I can help you trouble shoot the problem.

Cheers

Phillip

Reply to
Phillip Simpson

Thanks Phil Might just take you up on the offer if I can't sort it out.

Reply to
Simon Mills

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