90 Clutch Master Cylinder Removal - Question.

Twas Sun, 10 Oct 2004 13:01:09 +0100 when "McBad" put finger to keyboard producing:

It's not a big job to take the pedal box out. pull the trim off in the footwell, unclip the spring, 6 bolts out and you are away.

Regards. Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)

You are right. Inspection showed that there was not going to be room for the master cylinder to come out; too close to the bulkhead. I went the haynes route and took out the pedal and pedal box (which was still bit of a wriggle round the brake servo and the air filter). Worst bit was getting the trim out of the way round the footwell to get at the 6 bolts - fiddly, especially with everything covered in the brake fluid which has been dripping down the clutch pedal these last few weeks. Took me about 2 - 3 hours in total.

Thanks,

M.

It is possible to remove the clutch master cylinder without removing the whole pedal assembly, but the bottom bolt is very hard to get at. It is easier to remove the whole pedal assembly, however, unless the bolts are seized. All that is required is to remove six bolts (all very easy to get at) with captive nuts plus the hydraulic pipe. You can then remove the master cylinder easily, twisting the assembly through 90 degrees as you lift it. If you remove the master cylinder in situ, the bottom bolt is very inaccessible, and you need someone else in the cab to hold the head of the bolt. Furthermore, removing the whole assembly means you can clean up and repaint the area where the leaking fluid has stripped the paint, preparing it to rust. I have done it both ways and come to the conclusion that removing the whole assembly is the quickest and easiest way to go. I did the brake master cylinder this way on the 2a a few days ago. JD

I've just done one on my 2a and I couldn't get it out without removing the pedal box.

Alex