Difflock not working after gearbox rebuild

A half shaft went on me last week, but when I went to use difflock to get home, I found it wasn't working. The gearbox was rebuilt earlier this year, but I've lost the guy's phone number after my phone crashed.

Can somebody tell me whether there is a linkage somewhere that could be causing the problem as I don't really know how difflocks are supposed to engage and the light isn't coming on?

Cheers, John

Reply to
John Stokes
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John - Which model?

You are aware that the light will not come on until the lock(one only in standard form) is actually engaged. Selection of diff lock does not necessarily immediately engage/disengage the lock - you may have teeth meeting end on rather than engaging for example. This is normal.

Reply to
Dougal

Also, what with the mention of the gearbox being rebuilt, it's not clear if the OP is aware that the diff lock is in the transfer box and not the gearbox. A diff lock linkage maybe could be fubarred during removal/refitting of the gearbox, but actually rebuilding a gearbox shouldn't be a factor.

Reply to
Ian Rawlings

Hi, it's a 1985 110 which was rebuilt using a 300tdi engine and the later gearbox. Last week was the first time I'd tried to use the difflock in anger since I'd had it back, so I didn't realise it wasn't working. Is it a separate unit and how would I gain access to have a look if anything obvious is wrong? Cheers, John

Reply to
John Stokes

The difflock is in the transfer box. Quickest 'cure' is to take the gear covers off, which is a bastard to do if they've not been off before, 12 rivets, and clean the 'box' and linkages, they're _always_ full of crud. When you engage the difflock the light doesn't always come on, the engine/gearbox/clutch might have to be moved a little first, sometimes engaging reverse and letting out the clutch helps, but definitely movement fore and aft is needed, especially if it was crudded up. ;)

Reply to
Paul - xxx mobile

Presumably failure to lock was diagnosed by lack of drive with the failed half shaft. If done purely on the light (which may not be functional anyway) you may have been mislead as mentioned earlier.

Does the diff lock selector lever appear to move through its full range? If not, try to free off the external linkage on the top side of the transfer box front output housing. Check that all the linkage is present and connected. Get underneath and liberally treat the linkages, especially where they pass through the casings, with penetrating oil(not stuff like WD40 which doesn't work too well) or diesel. You may have to let it soak for a while. Keep exercising the linkage until free then lubricate well.

Once you have a full set of functional half shafts installed again you can easily check whether the diff is/is not actually locked.

If necessary get the warning light working to aid future diagnosis.

Engage the lock periodically to keep the linkage free.

Reply to
Dougal

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