DII Key Blade Removal

Mine keeps pulling out at inopportune moments, leaving just a stub in the lock to grasp. The metal bit of the key has a small plastic rectangular lump on it that pushes into the body of the fob, and has a recessed groove arround it that clips round a corresponding projection in the hole in the fob.

AWEM

Dave, I don't think they're intended to come out, the blipper is moulded onto the blade. I suspect the only real solution is a replacement, could be your local locksmith might be able to supply and program one, otherwise its a main stealer I'm afraid. Andy, superglue?

If its something like this

Separate key and separate fob

Local locksmith should be able to sort it out

I've got a fob without the key blade. Andrew's description matches what I see.

Looking at the form of the two tabs on the female part (the two longer sides of the rectangle) I suspect that a straight pull will separate the two parts. Hold key blade in a vice and pull on the fob.

projection

No, there is a definate joint in the plastic around the blade. On three sides only the fourth the blade is against the case.

An ordinary key and seperate fob does not work on a DII as there is a RF link between the key and ignition switch when you move the key to "run" to disable the imobiliser. I know it doesn't work as I've just tried it.

If you open the car with the blipper you have about 30 seconds to start the car with a plain key before the imobiliser reactivates. Once the imobilser is active the car won't start unless an active key is inserted. Holding the active key right close to a plain key trying to start the car doesn't work.

I guess I just need to apply a bit more brute force and ignorance to the old blade... Not knowing if there was a secret catch or not I didn't want to damage things by prising or pulling.

Thanks chaps.

Bit of a snip

I was thinking of moving up in the world and getting rid of my banger ( 96 TDI

Don't think I will after hearing about all the problems with "Fancy Gizmos" on modern "Sheds"

I had been thinking of a V8 Auto on LPG with a bit of grunt

But not now

Thanks Dave

DieSea

As others have noted, it's a press fit piece of plastic. To get it out, carefully apply a bending force to the blade. So if you're holding the key flat with the buttons upwards you bend the blade downwards. You should feel the plastic retaining notch click out of place, and then it's wiggle it about and pull until it comes out.

Do not stick the blade in a vice and pull straight upwards as the plastic block will break before it comes out. If you do kill it, you can get a plain key cut to the same pattern and just use the remote part of your old key as a remote. There isn't a transponder chip in disco 2 keys.

A new key from the steelers is V. expensive. A used rover 75 key from evilbay, and a finding a man with a nanocom is a lot cheaper, but you still need a good replacement blade.

Chris

Happy to have that pointed out. I can see that freeing one tab at a time will be less 'painful' to the plastic bits.

In message , DieSea writes

Just sold mine. The last V8 Defender was the 50th Anniversary in 1998. It had an alarm and an ECU of sorts but no other gizmos.

Is that joint not just to split the fob to replace batteries?

Don't think Booooodicka would wear a Defender

My last SWB SII nearly landed in her slinging 'er hook

DieSea

So why won't my DII start with the key sans the electronics once the imobilser has reactivated after the blipper has been used to unlock the car? You have about 30 seconds from unlocking the car with the blipper to start the car with a plain key but once the imobilser has reactivated you either have to lock/unlock again or use a key with electronics.

With the imobiliser active when you move the ignition switch from accessory to run using a plain key the alarm light goes from flashing to steady on, continuing to turn the key to start doesn't result in the starter being activated. With the plain key in the ignition switch and active and working blipper next to the switch it still doesn't disable the imobiliser.

Oh there is mention in RAVE of a 125kHz induction loop at the ignition switch as well...

Thanks for the images via email Douglas, very helpful to know the shape of and where the retaining lugs are. I did have another go this afternoon but it wasn't letting go. Still need to find a key cutting place that can cut me a new blank mind.

Do NOT do as others have said and wiggle the hell out of it or try and prize it apart - you'll bugger the fob. There are two parts - the fob (bit with buttons) and the key blade - with a lump of plastic moulded onto the end to be gripped in the fob.

To remove blade - hold firmly with pliers or in a vise. Pull fob DIRECTLY AWAY from key. DO NOT WRIGGLE. Blade just snaps back in in the exact opposite action.

I work for a Land Rover garage - this is how it's done.

Craig. Oz.

"gripped" being the very operative word.

Applications of much brute force and examination whilst pushing/pulling showed *no* movement between the plastic slug and the fob only between the blade and slug. Eventually the slug gave up. Now have the blade out but the remains of the plastic slug *still* don't want to part company with the fob despite being prised with a sharp metal point. I reckon the previous owners must have super glued the blade assembly into the fob...

I might be able to dig the remains of the slug out and get a blade with slug cut (and glue it in...). I bet you can't get just the key shell/case, the electronics work fine.

As a spare a plain key would be OK, given that a plain key will start the motor provided the immobiliser isn't active and you can go through the blipper lock/unlock cycle to disable the immobiliser for

try

What year is yours? Mine is an early TD5.

I could be wrong, but I think you'll find if you let it time out, and then try turning to start with a remote key it also doesn't start until you press the unlock button again. If you remove the battery cover on the key you will also see there is a blank space for the chip to go.

Chris

On mine transponder operation is transparent to the user. No need to press any buttons to disable the imobiliser once it has reactivated. You might need to switch to and from "accessory" if you'd left it in "run" but without the engine running for (SVO) a length of time. I currently don't have a plain key that I'd be willing to put in the lock to try that experiment with though. If the imobilser is active the check for a valid key is done when the switch is moved from accessory to run, failure being indicated by the alarm light coming on steady.

No blank spaces on the board in my fob.