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Discs, pads,

Marge threw a shoe yesterday, or, more to the point I think I let one of the pads wear down to the metal.

Leaving aside the fact I should've realised etc. Paddocks were excellent. Discs are a whole 8.75 each, so it seemed sensible to order the lot, rather than just pads. I slipped up though, in asking the fatal question, "Is there anything else I need?", rather than first checking the HBOL.

Yikes! HBOL says I need to take the font hub assembly off - makes sense, obviously, but I'm missing the hub gasket and a new lockwasher for the nut. I shall have to creep slowly over to Pete at Christian Autos in Kingswood for those (nice man, Pete), but that's not the *real* problem...

What's stumping me is the endfloat adjustment on the way back: how do you persuade the adjuster nut to stay still whilst you torque-up the locknut? HBOL characteristically says "use a large open-ended spanner", I guess on my cranium (to relieve the pain), as I can't see how one will fit past the hub flange itself, especially when there's a box spanner or huge socket in the way!

This has now become a 'check-it-all-out-thoroughly-before-loosening-anything' operation, wot it should've been in the first place. So here's the questions (so far):

  1. what size is the hub locknut, and do the team prefer box spanner or socket for this?

  1. is the a trick to adjusting the endfloat, or is this the usual Haynes 'hide the nastiness from the punters until they're up to the armpits' thing?

  2. what's the trick with the locknut?

  1. who will win the 3.30 at Warwick?

  2. Should I give up now, whilst still only a bit behind, and head for the garage?

Worried of Bristle.

PS: If it helps, I fancy 'Heather Lad' to lay @8:1 in the 2:55 at Southwell, but, given the way today's going, the others'll probably drop dead in the starting gate and it'll limp to victory all the way down the course. SM.

PPS. For anyone else reading this: don't get hooked - disc changing's a mug's game...

Reply to
SpamTrapSeeSig
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Sorry can't answer you questions, but I got a laugh out of ya post..

S
Reply to
Silas

In article , Silas writes

Well, you have to try. But, in the case of those discs...

Regards,

Simonm.

Reply to
SpamTrapSeeSig

I am not too sure if this is correct but I did it last week and have done about 2000km since.

I only replacd the read discs mind (300Tdi Disco). Removed all the bits you mentioned. (You will need a old style socket to remove the calipers - by this I mean not a hex drive, and not one of these jobbies that drives on the flat part of the nut - have a look at the nuts) I needed to buy a 13mm socket to remove the calipers and a 14mm to remove the discs from the hub thingys.

From there it is pretty straight forward but you will also want some threadlock (locktite) to put on the caliper and hub bolts as it seems to have this on when they come out. I just used a gas pliers to tighten the stuffing big hub bolt - I think this is around a 56mm or thereabouts. Once I have it reasonably tight, I spin the wheel around a few times and shake the whole thing to make sure it is seated. I then just loosen it a smidgen, slip on the lock washer (which I reused) and then add the second big nut and tighten -with gas pliers - and make sure the whole thing feels tight but still spins freely.

I used a silicone gasket to seal the hub flanges back on.

As said, this has done a few long trips since then with no problems.

If you want to get the correct socket to do this you are probably looking at

3/4 inch drive sockets which are not cheap.

regards Stephen

Reply to
Fanie

In article , Fanie writes [snip]

Many, many thanks for that! It's great to hear from someone who's been there - I was just about to head out to the spares place. I think I'll see how it goes using the process you describe - have instant gasket, etc., so shouldn't be too bad.

Regards,

Simonm.

Reply to
SpamTrapSeeSig

Box spanner 52mm - they're fairly easy to come by and relatively cheap. Don't waste your money on sockets of this size.

Trial and error, largely, I'm afraid. You want to aim for minimum but definite end play when the lock nut is tight. See also 3 below.

The lockwasher goes between the lock and adjusting nuts and having an internal tang largely prevents the lock nut turning the adjusting nut. As a result of clerance in the threads etc. it's not quite that simple and the adjustment will change a bit as you tighten the lock nut - hence 'trial and error' as mentioned above. Don't bend the lock washer until you are satisfied with the end play setting.

No! They won't do any better than you. It's a valuable learning experience. If you take your time you might actually end up enjoying the task.

Reply to
Dougal

Paddocks or any other landrover parts shop should sell the proper socket/box spanner for the job. One for a series is only about a fiver i think. Worth buying as its easier than a hammer and chisel and you save money by not having the replace the nuts too after you chew them up with the chisel!

Reply to
Tom Woods

On or around Fri, 15 Jul 2005 07:56:22 GMT, SpamTrapSeeSig enlightened us thusly:

cornflake packet.

and the lockwasher has at least 2 uses in it, maybe 3 - after you straighten it out, you've got 2 places where it's been used and shouldn't be used again, totalling a bit more than 1/3 of the circumference. hammer the washer flat, and then, on re-assembly, bend an unused bit of washer up to hold the flat on the nut.

'course, if someone's already done that...

Reply to
Austin Shackles

In article , Tom Woods writes

That does sound like a good idea.

The plot thickens though: The original problem was ticking at certain steering wheel positions, then lots of squealing + loss of braking efficiency for a while (sounded like a Routemaster for a bit). It went away though and the braking came back a bit. It never pulled to one side, but all the noise came from the left.

Now I look, the disks are worn less than 1.5mm overall from their new thickness, and the pads only about 1/3-1/2 way through the acceptable range. ?There's no sign of a leak, there's no apparent play in the stub axle, although there's a lot of slop in the transmission (about 20-30deg play with t'other wheel on the graound and centre diff-lock engaged.

Next stop the rear drums + shoes, unless anyone's got a better idea?

This is definitely becoming a 'Doh!' moment.

Regards,

Simonm.

Reply to
SpamTrapSeeSig

In article , Austin Shackles writes

Points well taken :)

Meanwhile... :(

Just taken the drum off on that side. OK, the shoes need doing within

2000 miles or so, but no sign of damage or break-up or anything really. Bearings at the back feel OK too. There is a bit of a weep from the swivel I guess (supposed to be EP-whatsit once and forever grease), but not abnormal. It's getting too dark tonight, but I'll clean the swivel housing off and check it over carefully, although goodness knows how you check if it's got *enough* grease (compared to just *some* grease). So I suppose it could be the CVJ, but it wasn't a CVJ noise originally...

The old girl's just playing with me again, I know it...

Regards,

Simonm.

Reply to
SpamTrapSeeSig

I disagree, a socket enables a torque wrench to be used.

Reply to
Niamh Holding

On or around Mon, 8 Aug 2005 02:19 +0100 (BST), snipped-for-privacy@4x4cymru.trapping.co.uk (Niamh Holding) enlightened us thusly:

True - however, I think I'd be inclined to weld a plate on the top of the box spanner with a 1/2" square hole in it, if I needed to use the torque wrench. Not found the torque for wheel bearings to be that critical, I must say.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

My box spanner allows a 1/2" socket to be fitted...

john

Reply to
john

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