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LED Lights

"> LED´s don´t like current spikes or overtemperature operation. Maybe

I somehow doubt if it is spikes or over current that are causing you problems. LED's can withstand quite large overcurrent spikes, that is how they are run in pulsed applications in order to get higher intensity (short) pulses. They are also normally rated up to +70C at least, so I doubt if it is a temperature problem

You say that they went dim or flashed, that is not a normal failure mode for an led. It sounds more like poor connections inside the led bulb itself. If you can try taking the assembly apart and looking at the joints inside.

Regards Jeff

Reply to
Jeff
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VERY short pulses, and even then there is a maximum (for a 20-30mA forward current, not more than 1000mA typically, else you fuse the packages) An alternator dumping load can dump 80-120 V it for several hundreds of milliseconds (from a pretty low impedance source too), which COULD zap cheap lights - maybe the pucker units do use transorbs.

Maybe the older Landies don´t suit LED lights ?

Steve

Reply to
steve Taylor

">> I somehow doubt if it is spikes or over current that are causing you

If we say each led is set up for 30mA that will mean a series resistor in the region of 500ohms (depending on what you take as the nominal battery voltage). Even if the voltage spike were as high as 120V the resistor would limit the forward current to about 250mA which is well within the pulse rating of most led's.

As a separate point I have never seen spike voltages any where near 120V, or pulse widths in the hundreds of milliseconds. Those specs are more like the values that are used for military vehicles when you have large motors turning tank turrets. If those values were typical it is unlikely that most domestic electronic equipment would survive in vehicles.

Regards Jeff

Reply to
Jeff

Granted it can be done Austin, but he said "in a matter of a few mins" and I'd like to know how. On my old 200, no way I don't think, but I haven't looked at the 300 yet. TonyB

Reply to
TonyB

On or around 27 Nov 2006 06:30:06 -0800, "Liam" enlightened us thusly:

I think I noticed one or two trying to come apart physically, but an application of superglue fixed that.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

Mil specs for load dumping are much worse to be sure, but auto electronics are specced ( by the likes of GM ) with transients like I described.

Steve

Reply to
steve

Yes really !

Not the kind of thing you can really explain.

It is tight, it does hurt, but it does not take long at all.

WD40, a marker pen and a large bladed screw driver are used in the process.

When you do it for a living then it is always easier.

200 and 300 rear lights are the same as far as bulb replacement is concerned.
Reply to
Marc Draper

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