Oil level Rover V-8 military

Bit of a strange question. Had a rebuild V8 3.5 fitted in my RR. Rebuild engine is military engine marked 'ECO 2 1-96'. When filling it up with
fresh oil, I noticed I had to fill 1 litre more than mentioned in the RR manual. I've driven 1000 km's so far, and used almost 1 litre of oil (10W40). Also I've some leakage between gear box and engine. So I took the dipstick from the old engine (which is a different design,much shorter) , and measured the min-max mark with the dipstick from the new engine ,calculating the difference in length. The min mark of the new dipstick is on the max mark of the old dipstick. As far as I can see, there's no difference in oil sumps, so maybe it was ment to mount in an angle in some sort of military vehicle? I suspect I' overfilling it. Also the oil filler is completely different, mounted on the other valve cover. I've no idea about compression ratio or power output ,it's not mentioned at the engine number.The engine is sprayed in light-green colour. Anyone any idea?
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It sounds like you have a military recon 101 engine.... There's a picture at:
http://www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk/BeamEnds/101/Engine/608037/index.html
Richard
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Hi Richard,
Yes, that's the engine I've mounted in my RR. Just manage to switch the complete dipstick assy, and it's now just over 'max' while on the other dipstick it was almost on 'low' Do you also have specs of these engines?
Thanks
Kees

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That'll be that sorted then. All you need to do now is drain the oil and put the correct grade in! 10W40 is too thin for an early-style V8, it will burn oil past the rings and leak more than normal as well. The engine was designed to pump a heavy oil in volume, not a thin oil at pressure, and as such MUST have 20W50 grade oil if you aren't to experience quicker than normal wear of the rearmost crank bearings.

Around 120bhp on a good day, in standard tune. Badger.
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So it does have the same specs as the standard RR engine ?. 8.13 compression ratio?.Ignition timing 6 degrees before TDC? Or does that depend on the used distributor?
Kees

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compression
used
As far as I can remember, the engine is the same spec as the similar aged rangerover one, 8.13:1 cr, same initial advance (but less total mechanical advance - a vain attempt to slightly detune bhp at high rpm to deter squaddies from going too fast!!), and a slightly different cam profile (flatter torque curve). I believe the cam timing was36/64/74/26 (cam, ETC6849), as opposed to the rangie's 30/75/68/37 (Cam, ETC6850), but I might be wrong. I'm sure someone with a lot more 101 knowledge than I will be along soon..... Badger.
P.S. top-posting annoys some people on this group, sticking to bottom-posting will keep them happy!
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Just checked 101 parts catalogue, the only 101 unique parts are inlet manifold (some tappings difer), water pump (typical of military), oil pump and carbs (just needles I think). Camshaft part no is 603724 if you want to check against early RR parts book or tranlate to modern parts no. 12V Dizzy isn't unique either - 614179.
Changed my carbs to SU's and got a proffessional tune, goes like stink now.
Sean 73FL74 101GS 2000 110 CSW Medway Military Vehicle Group www.mmvg.net
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Sean,
Thanks for yr efforts.So the oil sumps are the same. Engine in 101 must be tilted then in some way...... otherwise 101 V8 should have bigger oil capacity / higher oil level than standard engine. Have the old distributor/carbs/inlet manifold fitted. Engine runs great ,LPG -fuelled, about 5km/ltr. Will fill it with 20W50 to reduce oil consumption. Is it really such a difference SU instead of Zenith.-S carbs?
Kees
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Morphs 101 lump sat level, they do however have oil coolers fitted which would require some extra capacity. Though now I'm pondering the laws of physics...oh and they provide oil to the air compressor pump too.... but that would be negligable.
Lee D
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k.w wrote:

I don't understand your thinking. The oil level can't be higher or the crank webs will be dipping in it continually which is not a good idea. That level will be fundamantally the same in all applications of the engine.
It's also possible for the system volumes to differ as a result of plumbing and component differences. More system volume does not translate into a higher oil level.
What you probably do have is an incompatible mix of dipstick and the associated tube.
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Dougal <DougalAThiskennel.free-online.co.uk> uttered summat worrerz funny about:

The 101 had the fuel pump wired via the oil pressure switch, maybe it was a cunning plan to get people to safety away from the front line in the event of getting shot in the sump....extra couple of minute oil and all that. :-)
Though I think your final comment is more likely closer to the truth.
Lee D
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Just checked, dipstick is a unique part but may only be to make it easier to reach through access hatch.
Sean
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snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

... and in that case the tube will also be different.
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Dougal wrote:

.... clarification needed - the tube will be different if the length (tube end to oil level) is different. As Sean suggests the uniqueness may be other than a difference in length.
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Tube isn't a unique part but could be different from RR. Part no is 613792.
Sean
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snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

Early tubes (all used with 603173 dipstick)on standard RRC listed as: 610021 12.11/16" overall length (book actually says 2.11/16" which I assume to be an error) 614245 11.1/4" overall length (or 90614583 used with a clamp bracket) ERC2571 (eng suffix F onwards)
ERC3188 (eng suffix F onwards, Australia - used with ERC2983 dipstick)
The ERC tubes also seem to have been used with a clamp - 614585 or ERC3222 (Australia)
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"Dougal" <DougalAThiskennel.free-online.co.uk> wrote in message wrote:

Checked the length of the tube (clamp type) and it's 28.5 cm (11.25 inch) Length of the dipstick from inside the cap that comes over the tube until the 'low' mark is 57.7 cm ( 22.72 inch) Total length from inside cap till the other end is 60 cm (23.62 inch)
RR tube / dipstick is completely different.
Kees
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Shouldn't make any difference on LPG but SUs are definitley a better carb on petrol plus you don't have the rubber diaphrgm to split as in the Z-S.
Sean
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I don't except in general terms. No doubt one of the many 101 owners hereablouts will be along in a minute with the differences, it's been a while since I owned one!
Having a google search for the "owners manual" may produce something ;-)
Richard

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design,much
the
at
It doesn't really matter which dipstick you have got. All you need to know is the oil capacity of the engine from what it says in the manual, fill it up with the correct amount, run it to make sure the filter is full, let it settle for a while and lightly mark the stick where the oil comes to with a hacksaw and another mark about 3/8" or so lower down for the minimum level. Keep it between the two.
Martin
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