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Overheating & pressure

This little saga has been going on for a year, so you know I'm utterly fed up with it now... The wagon in question is a 110 with 2.5TD engine, it starts and runs fine, don't burn any oil at all, but has ALWAYS had a water problem.

My Landy bod got some gizmo that his race driver son in law owns to test the original rad, I had trouble getting near the wagon while this was going on, due to the sheer number of bodies in the way, watching this gadget, but it showed it was blocked.. So we replaced it.

Now, having said that first deliberately, to get shot of the blocked radiator replies, I'll also add we put the missing thermostat in as well, also NUMEROUS checks and tests have been made, and the head gasket is in fine fettle, in fact the engine is very happy, it could only be happier if it met another engine it liked, and gave birth to a load of starter motors.

The problem is, that the water system builds up a LOT of pressure, the sort that has U standing back, and thermal gloves on to take the cap off, and of course, the temp needle is always buried somewhere in the red... Except at idle, when is seems to close it's eyes, whistle nonchelantly to it'self, roll it's eyes, and settle back to about 1/2 way thru the normal block, leaving U feeling stoopid when U pull up in the motorway services and pop the bonnet etc etc.

Anyway, I am always, every day, topping up the water, squeezing all the pipes, and running the engine fast with the cap off etc to make sure there are no airlocks... I've had that horrible flushy stuff, that UR meant to use for 30 mins or so in the thing for 2 days, then I got worried about the rubber parts, and drained it.

I always top up to half way up the header to allow expansion, and always, make sure I get all the air bubbles out... So any ideas guys??? Anything??? With winter coming up, and the 110 in daily use, I'm worried more about antifreeze mpg than diesel mpg

Reply to
ParrotCam
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Anything???

TonyB>

Reply to
TonyB

TonyB

Nope, it's fine , the water circulates, and if the WP wuz fugged, why would I get all that pressure?

If I leave the cap off, and leave my foot or hand on the accy pedal for a bit, and then let go too quick, it sorta back flows, and blows loadsa water outta the filler, so the pump definately works, also no rattles from there (YES, I know it's a D, how can I tell, A LONG screwdriver, put the metal end on the thing to listen to, and the handle on your ear, works like a doctors stethascope thingy, or a glass on the wall to next door)

Reply to
ParrotCam

Anything???

had a toyota with exactly the same symptons, went on for two years with no drop off in engine performance, no abnormal use of oil only this demand for water and high engine temps, turned out to be a hairline crack in the head.

Reply to
Nigel Richardson

On or around Mon, 15 Sep 2003 00:33:36 +0100, "Nigel Richardson" enlightened us thusly:

I'm afraid to say I agree. Would normally reckon that it was ahead gasket with those symptoms, but if the gasket's OK it really only leaves the head itself.

There's supposed to be some way of testing for combustion byproducts in the water, I believe. Or there's the thing that looks for antifreeze in the exhaust, which of course only works if you have antifreeze in it.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

In article , ParrotCam writes

The TD engine is well know for failing in many different ways. One of which is the head cracking. This will almost certainly be the problem.

If you decide to replace the head take a good look at the pistons because I I would put good money on them being cracked too.

The TD is not an engine worth spending a huge amount of money on.

Reply to
Marc Draper

My 300 TDi did something similar it turned out that in a previous life the head gasket had blown and been repalced without checking the head. When it went on me checks carried out showed the head was warped so it had to be skimmed, it was also crack tested at the same time and was OK so in my case it was the head gasket.

Peter S

Reply to
Peter Seddon

You can get a fluid reservoir that screws onto the header tank, and it has some other type of fluid in it, and a 1 way valve, which will change colour if there are combustion products in the water system ( well, works if there's back pressure on the system). I had this done, in some amazement about a year ago. Don't know where from tho' , sorry.

Reply to
Agrippa

Sounds like the block may have gone porus/cracked (usually between nos

3 & 4 cylinders).

Richard

Reply to
postmaster

I must admit I had suspicions about the head, although the engine was a recon about 8 months before I bought it, I've always been a bit wary of buying recon anything, I prefer to get the existing rebuilt if poss.

I won't need to spend masses on it, the place I got it from will do a well priced fix if it is the head, but I would have thought this'd have turned up when they where testing for head gasket problems...

Although I will say that the replacement radiator fixed the problem for about 2 weeks, so maybe the cooling system is fine, and the head cracked during the 2 weeks due to all the previous heat problems... Dunno, I'll get it checked anyway, at this point anything is worth checking, even that water pump pulley comment

Reply to
ParrotCam

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