Power loss problems...

On the way back from LRO on saturday we suffered power loss.I found a chafed wire from the coil touching the pulley wheel so i thought it was shorting and giving us reduced power.After fixing that she ran well for two days.Tonight however she started to run like a bag of sh** again.Anybody got any ideas what it could be?

-- Brev

101 Ambie (Matilda)
Reply to
Brevit
Loading thread data ...

Points?

Timing? Morphs dizzy clamp is always loose as I can't get to the blasted bolt as the compressor completely blocks access.... check that if you have a compressor too.

Lee D

-- Project Percy - Jaguar 4.2 and Auto in to Series IIa 88 see it @

formatting link

101Ambi '76 / IIa - Percy '64 / Rangie TD '90

alt.fan.landrover hall of fame -

formatting link

Reply to
Lee_D

Hi Brev - does it feel like a misfire or just a power loss? I can tell you lots and lots about fuel starvation on 101's....

Is it OK on short journeys then crap on a longer run?

Is it OK on level ground and low throttle but lousy on hills or big throttle openings?

Tim Hobbs

'58 Series 2 '77 101FC Ambulance '95 Discovery V8i

formatting link

Reply to
Tim Hobbs

Reply to
Brevit

This is identical to the problem I have just had. I would say you have fuel starvation, and the fact that it comes on bigger loads (i.e. when you are pushing 45mph) and when the engine is hot suggests that the cause is the same as mine also.

Warren basically did the following

i) replaced the fuel pump with an external Range Rover item (and tried it in different positions) ii) replaced the distributor (it was knackered anyway) with a sexy Mallory dual-point job iii) replaced the leads with Magnecors iv) blew through all the fuel lines (in both directions) v) rebuilt the Stromberg carbs (twice) vi) adjusted and readjusted the timing

None of the above made a bar of difference, except to make it go like stink when it was going, but it still stopped when hot or when pushed hard.

Eventually he stripped the top off the engine, suspecting an inlet air leak, causing the mixture to go very lean when it was sucking hard and much worse when the engine was thoroughly hot. He was right - it's as right as rain now and can (if really caned) push a GPS-confirmed 70 mph.

I hope this helps, although I guess you'd prefer to hear it was something a bit simpler!

Tim Hobbs

'58 Series 2 '77 101FC Ambulance '95 Discovery V8i

formatting link

Reply to
Tim Hobbs

Cheers Tim...you certainly know how to brighten my day......(sob sob)....

Brev

Reply to
Brevit

On or around Wed, 10 Sep 2003 16:31:20 +0100, "Brevit" enlightened us thusly:

inlet manifold is not too hard to get off, if you don't want to delve any further.

Mine's fitted with the standard metal valley gasket sealed on both sides (of the gasket) with non-hardening "red" gasket sealer. Seems to work.

try fitting a vacuum gauge to the manifold, or branch it from the vacuum servo pipe. This may show up a manifold leak, by indicating less-than-normal inlet depression, especially at idle. Had a manifold leak on an old ford once, which showed up thusly.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

Here we go again. Wilbur (my Stage 1 V8) has this problem too, but only when running on petrol - on LPG it never has any problems (well, the timing's not perfect and it's still backfiring a bit, but certainly never the drastic power loss I get on petrol), which is why I assume it's to do with the fuel/carbs. Is there any reason why an inlet leak wouldn't have any effect on LPG performance?

Olly R

Reply to
Olly R

Having thought of trying the timing first, i came upon at the back of the dizzy an extended hexhead nut (approx 1.5ins long) and on the other end is a fine screw thread that disappears into the dizzy itself.When viewed from above the screw thread appears to push a plate inside but underneath the metal plate holding the points. Please could someone tell me what it is and the consiqueces of having twisted it with my fingers (in trying to see what it was)

Brev > >

Reply to
Brevit

On or around Thu, 11 Sep 2003 00:53:47 +0100, "Brevit" enlightened us thusly:

It adjusts the points, IIRC.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

In message , Austin Shackles writes

As long as it's still running, slap your dwell meter on the coil and twiddle the adjuster (for that's what it is) to 26-28 degrees or whatever the book reads ... if you've changed it much it can produce all sorts of nasty power-loss, bad or no starting, missing and other spark-related symptoms!

Reply to
AndyG

Well today i took the fuel filter off & cleaned it and the sediment bowl too. You should have seen the crap that was in them!! Anyhow the gauze at the top of the sediment bowl was caked almost solid with 'orrid muck.I cleaned it all up reset the points and went off to test drive her. Guess what ..... she goes like a rocket again now!!! Thanks to everyone who sent in suggestions

Reply to
Brevit

I hate it when it's summat simple and my advice was to take the engine apart!

Tim Hobbs

'58 Series 2 '77 101FC Ambulance '95 Discovery V8i

formatting link

Reply to
Tim Hobbs

On or around Thu, 11 Sep 2003 15:00:09 +0100, AndyG enlightened us thusly:

failing that, lift the lid and get a feeler gauge between the points (with the points thing on the point of the cam, of course), set 'em to 15 thou'. Not as accurate as using a dwell meter, but better than having 'em a long way out.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

Still if it's a nice day and there's nothing on the telly....

Cheers Gary

Reply to
Gary Sutherland

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.