pressure coming OUT of the intake manifold

A knackered exhaust valve would only allow gases into the exhaust system.

A knackered inlet valve would let gases back to the inlet manifold.

Another posibilty is a blocked crankcase breather causing the crankcase to pressurise, even ancient engines have a path from the crankcase to the inlet manifold to control emmisions a bit.

I'd have thought if the timing got that far out it wouldn't run at all, even badly.

WVO will almost certainly be missing the engine lubricants that pump diesel has, this may have enabled a weakness in a valve/valve seat to become a serious problem. IIRC white smoke is fuel vapourised but not burnt, black is too much fuel that has been burnt to some extent.

Think I'd do the simple things first like check the timeing and crankcase breather(s).

ing noise for about four months now after running it with WVO (waste vegeta ble oil) for the previous 2 months.

haust especially when the engine was cold. White to whitish-grey smoke whi ch smelled of diesel not oil.

e pump (the BOSCH VE one) and the clicking noise has almost gone along with the heavy whitish smoke from the exhaust.

noise became stronger along with heavier whitish smoking from the exhaust.

he smoke became black when trying to accelerate and the engine lost power. But the most alarming thing is that it sounded like trying to explode.

rcooler to the intake manifold what pulsating and that there was air trying to come OUT of the air filter housing (remember this is a camel trophy Dis covery and it was a mantec snorkel fitted to the air filter housing).

the intake manifold and the car has started sounding as if I have removed the exhaust while on the same time there was air coming OUT of the intake m anifold (which should normally suck air inside towards the engine).

more than one, exhaust valves or pushrods or with the timing of the engin e.

re problems then the ones they have tried to solve I have decided to try an d fix this problem myself with your assistance, knowledge and experience.

mptoms, I would be grateful if you could share your knowledge and experienc e.

a complete upper engine gasket and bolts kit, a full timing belt kit and a spare cylinder head.

Dave thanks,

will do that and revert.

By the way is there a simple way to check timing without removing the engin e's front timing cover?

Thanks again for your kind input

Take care and have a nice weekend Pantelis Giamarellos

On a diesel I wouldn't have thought so, nothing to spark the timing light. B-) I don't know the engine, there might be marks on a pully and a reference point somewhere, but that wouldn't confirm that a camshaft or pump drive hadn't jumped a tooth or two. The book will tell you. B-)

A damaged, presumably bent, pushrod is very obvious - sounds like very wide rocker clearance. Unlikely to be the case here, I feel.

There was deterioration during a journey. I don't think that a breather problem would worsen suddenly.

Yes

Could be a blown head gasket between two cylinders allowing pressurised air from one cylinder to enter another where the inlet valve is open. This would result in loss of power. It would also, I think, result in there being insufficient air for complete combustion and hence your black smoke. Do a compression test - if bad enough it will be detectable just by feel when turning the engine over by hand.

Holed piston? The compression test will reveal that, too.

I love your description "it sounded like (it was) trying to explode" but can't quite 'visualise' it!

ing noise for about four months now after running it with WVO (waste vegeta ble oil) for the previous 2 months.

haust especially when the engine was cold. White to whitish-grey smoke whi ch smelled of diesel not oil.

e pump (the BOSCH VE one) and the clicking noise has almost gone along with the heavy whitish smoke from the exhaust.

noise became stronger along with heavier whitish smoking from the exhaust.

he smoke became black when trying to accelerate and the engine lost power. But the most alarming thing is that it sounded like trying to explode.

rcooler to the intake manifold what pulsating and that there was air trying to come OUT of the air filter housing (remember this is a camel trophy Dis covery and it was a mantec snorkel fitted to the air filter housing).

the intake manifold and the car has started sounding as if I have removed the exhaust while on the same time there was air coming OUT of the intake m anifold (which should normally suck air inside towards the engine).

more than one, exhaust valves or pushrods or with the timing of the engin e.

re problems then the ones they have tried to solve I have decided to try an d fix this problem myself with your assistance, knowledge and experience.

mptoms, I would be grateful if you could share your knowledge and experienc e.

a complete upper engine gasket and bolts kit, a full timing belt kit and a spare cylinder head.

People Hi,

I have decided to proceed into opening the upper part of the cylinder head.

The outcome is two bent pushrods and one broken adjusting screw on a rocker . More precisely a slightly bent pushrod on the No. 1 cylinder and an even more slightly bent pushrod and a broken adjusting screw on the rocker of t he No. 3 cylinder.

The reason this thing has happened is simply because my mechanic's grease m onkey had not tightened the crankshaft to pulley bolt properly. As a result the pulley dumper assembly has managed to damage the woodruff k ey and the crankshaft indentation where the woordruff key is located. This was "addressed" by the mechanic by simply spot welding the woodruff key on the crankshaft and the pulley dumper assembly.

But this of course was not the proper way to mend this kind of damage and i t has resulted into further play both to the pulley dumper assembly and the crankshaft gear which drives the timing belt. But on the case of the gear the woodruff key was "eaten" by the gear. The gear drive was also "eaten" by the woodruff key and this has resulted in the engine gradually losing i ts timing.

And this was why the car was emitting the white smoke and the engine was ra ttling and it finally resulted in bending the pushrods and breaking the roc ker to valve adjusting screw.

I believe that no further damage has resulted in the cylinders, pistons and cylinder head.

I am now waiting for the spare parts to arrive and following an extensive s earch on the internet for possible way to repair the damage have decided to use loctite metal filled epoxy putty (product number Loctite 3463) with a compression rating of 12000 psi for filling up the gap on the crankshaft, u sing the standard sized woodruff keys (after all the one holding the timing gear on the crankshaft had not damaged the crankshaft) and then using one more Loctite product for securing the pulleys onto the crankshaft (Loctite

638 used for securing bearing onto their housings or axles) Photos of the damage and the procedure of removing the "eaten away" woodruf f key from the crankshaft can be found here: I will be keeping you update on the outcome of the repair.

Thanks again to everybody for your kind assistance and suggestions. Pantelis Giamarellos LAND ROVER CLUB OF GREECE

I presume that your 'mechanic' is paying for all this after bodging your engine ?

AWEM

Andrew Hi,

the cost of the spare parts was not so expensive and the mechanic has been a long time friend. The problem was due to his assistants' negligence (in fact his assistants are his two sons...). So I chose simply to say to my f riend that his assistants are worthless without him overlooking them.

The cost of my labor was zero since I have a lot of free time in my hands a nd being frank I actually enjoyed being able to repair a relatively complic ated damage on my car.

The car has now covered more than 1500 Km without any kind of problem, smok e from the exhaust is gone, the engine sounds like new and the fuel consump tion has returned to 11.5 litres per 100 km (which is extremely good for a

2.8 tonnes heavy genuine Camel Trophy vehicle with the roofrack, sand ladde rs, pioneering tools and front and rear Camel Trophy plaques on the roofrac k.

The repair of the crankshaft was done using Loctite 3463 metal filled epoxy putty to fill up its damaged area and Loctite 624 (as per the Land Rover w orkshop manual) thread securing liquid for the crankshaft bolt and also app lied between the damper pulley and the surface of the crankshaft. The whol e assembly was left to rest and the "glues" to set properly.

Finger crossed that it will be a good repair for a long time....

Thanks to everybody for your kind input, proposals and ideas.

Take care and greetings from the sunny and always beautiful Greece. Pantelis Giamarellos LAND ROVER CLUB OF GREECE